Everyone loves a good comeback. And under Isabella Burley, Helmut Lang’s first editor-in-residence, alongside designer Shayne Oliver of Hood By Air fame, the New York label is having the rebirth we’ve been anticipating for years.
The highlight of this re-edition would be Oliver’s exceptional combining of Helmut Lang’s grungy minimalism with a BDSM edge. The end result makes way for perhaps one of the most compelling collections of the season; clean tailoring shared the same stage as asymmetric bras and strappy, harness-like details. Despite a somewhat predictable turn given Oliver’s usual repertoire, it’s clearly a new day for Helmut Lang, and a new chapter for the New York-based designer as well.
We look forward to the progression to come.
Photos by Nicholas Policarpo