Les Hommes designers Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did what many have done several times recently and merged formality with streetwear. Though this is no new concept in fashion, Notte and Vandebosch certainly did it right and left quite an impression. For Les Hommes’ spring 2014 collection, the design team paired supple leather t-shirts with sleek tailoring, while beautiful floral prints added the necessary color to the otherwise monochromatic pieces. I wouldn’t call this endeavor particularly groundbreaking, but Tom Notte and Bart Vandebosch did what fashion is meant to do: sell products. The spring 2014 collection for Les Hommes is a straightforwardly appealing one, and I’d be all over every single luxurious yet urban item.
With her mostly monochromatic medley for spring 2014 menswear, Jil Sander reminded us why she earned the nickname “the queen of clean.” The master of minimalism, Sander’s collection was all about control. This notion was represented by the proliferation of rigid silhouettes and uniquely shaped leather items, while even the accessories showed a sign of discipline.
Sander juxtaposed her predominantly black and white ensembles with bursts of color, featuring flecked pinks and oranges and a particularly loud red coat. Meanwhile, the designer experimented with distorted plaids and scribble prints that seemed relatively dirty considering her epithet. Although control was still a noticeable element, these small traits prevented the collection from appearing too basic.
Many might argue that Jil Sander’s spring 2014 menswear collection and her overall simplistic aesthetic is boring and plain. However, her attention to detail and genuine understanding of good taste is what makes her idea of fundamental fashion so appealing.
In case you haven’t heard the news, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana have been sentenced to one year and eight months in prison for tax evasion. But the design duo set the recent scandal aside in time to present their spring 2014 menswear collection in Milan.
Call me cynical, but I’m not exactly moved by Dolce & Gabbana’s latest endeavor. I’d actually use the term “latest” pretty loosely, as I feel like I’m having a bit of déjà-vu with yet another Sicily-inspired collection. This time, the Sicilian aspect that the team tackled was the region’s Greco-Roman ancestry, specifically emphasizing the idea of “Zeus and Apollo,” which was literally reflected upon a slew of classical printed shorts and t-shirts. While the pieces were beautifully done, I can’t help but feel a little bored. However, a more redeeming quality of the slightly repetitive presentation was the sharply tailored suits shown in various colors of shimmering silk; no matter what drawbacks accompany Dolce & Gabbana, the pair will always have a mastery of suiting.
Looking at Dolce & Gabbana’s spring 2014 menswear collection is somewhat bittersweet, as legal troubles delineate an uncertain future for the brand. But whatever may happen to Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana at the hands of the law, let’s hope their next collection is a bit more inspiring.
I know that when I covered London Fashion Week for spring 2014 menswear, I did so by summarizing the standouts. Not to discredit London, but there’s so much more to mention when it comes to Milan and Paris, so it’s only necessary to go into a little more detail from here on.
Milan Fashion Week started off on a positive note today with the heavily anticipated return of ex-creative director of (the house formerly known as) Yves Saint Laurent, Stefano Pilati. Though Pilati was appointed to this position at Ermenegildo Zegna back in September, he took his time before rushing into his comeback, and it definitely paid off. He clearly did his research on the house of Ermenegildo Zegna, which showed through his use of fabrics and textiles. Meanwhile, Pilati successfully integrated accents of burgundy, violet, and sapphire throughout his otherwise neutral color palette.
Stefano Pilati’s own impressive sense of style was also noticeable at his debut collection for Zegna, as there was no shortage of sock-free loafers or sophisticated neck scarves. Each look was styled in a way that showed a more practical side to pure elegance, and the show was a sartorial goldmine.
Stefano Pilati managed to present a noteworthy signature to the somewhat bland designs often associated with Ermenegildo Zegna, and his future at the house looks very promising. Based on his success at Yves Saint Laurent, it’s not surprising to see Pilati already excelling at Zegna, but it’s certainly exciting to imagine what’s next.
It’s pretty obvious that fashion never stops, so it should come as no surprise that we’re already moving on to the next set of collections. Right on the heels of Resort 2014, the spring 2014 menswear collections are being shown. First up is London, whose week of unique expression and daring designs is rapidly expanding. I’d love to review each collection individually, but in the wise words of Sweet Brown, “ain’t nobody got time for that.” In more appropriate terms, here’s a summary of London Fashion Week for spring 2014 menswear.
Christopher Kane started off the week on a relatively mediocre note with a stark contrast to his wondrous womenswear. As Style.com’s Tim Blanks put it, the clothes seem like an afterthought. Some interesting elements from his ladies’ looks reemerged, but they did so in a much less exciting way, with uninspiring – and possibly uninspired – graphic prints. It didn’t help that the collection mostly consisted of basics. Men’s fashion certainly doesn’t have the popularity of its female counterpart, and Christopher Kane’s latest endeavor did nothing to change that.
Continuing London Fashion Week on a more positive note was Topman Design, whose creative director, Gordon Richardson placed an appealing emphasis on the shirts. I’m not really into anything cowboy-themed, but the urban edge to Topman’s Western-wear definitely saved the collection. Bold colors and metallics were intricately woven onto delicate silk, presenting a juxtaposition of youth and glamor instead of the belabored “cowboys and Indians” concept. Though perfectly styled, the pieces could also work well independently, as they show great potential for versatility. On the same day, Peter Jensen’s womenswear resort 2014 collection debuted alongside his menswear, which showed an obvious inspiration from Andy Warhol. The bright-colored, mod and pop art pieces effectively tied the men’s and women’s designs together through cheeky prints and unisex fabrics. Meanwhile, Astrid Andersen showed some Givenchy-esque garments with an urban, athletic feel, while Lou Dalton’s airforce-inspired gear presented a pleasing color palette. Richard Nicoll’s sober yet sensual collection for spring 2014 was another standout on this impressive day; any collection that starts with beautiful black leather has my heart. From there, more color emerged alongside provocative prints. Overall, Richard Nicoll’s spring 2014 menswear collection was made up of bold yet wearable items, and it’s one of my favorites of the season so far.
As the week progressed, we saw even more noteworthy work from London’s top designers. Sarah Burton always makes a statement at Alexander McQueen, this time with exceptional details highlighting the already top-notch tailoring. White lace and black roses told a story of “rites of passage,” from life to death and everything in between, while the materials appeared frayed and worn by the elements. Burton’s artistic reinterpretation of a dark Edwardian era further proves her capability of continuing Lee McQueen’s iconic legacy. Though not quite as intricate or thought-provoking as Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders’ collection was practical and refreshing. A “techy” shine to upbeat colors added a jolt of liveliness to an otherwise basic collection. Another standout was Rag & Bone. Designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright returned home in London after regularly showing their collections in New York, bringing with them quite a spectacle; several lights and mirrors were coordinated by London’s United Visual Artists, the same group that arranges stage shows for U2. But let’s not forget about the clothes. Rag & Bone spring 2014 menswear was, as always, wearable and effortlessly stylish, though the implementation of Japanese sashiko fabric added a unique twist.
Joanna Sykes’ first menswear collection for Nicole Farhi implied clarity, and the show reflected the idea. Peace, serenity, and tranquility fueled the models’ light steps down the runway, with each turn providing a closer look, thus revealing modern texture. Speaking of modernity, there was no shortage of that at James Long, where sporty jackets and hoodies met loose shorts. We can’t forget about the stripes enhanced with bursts of color, which made many pieces reminiscent of the spectrum on a broken TV screen. Christopher Shannon took us to Mexico, packing a new approach to wild prints and loud colors, while Christopher Raeburn opted for more of a hand painted look to the pieces, as well as optimistic blue and pink counterparts.
Nothing says London more than Burberry Prorsum. Christopher Bailey made the decision to move his men’s presentation to London this season, further signifying the emphasis on British heritage that the brand is known for. Some of Burberry’s own heritage prevailed, as Bailey found yet another way to reinvent the iconic trench and other statement outerwear pieces. The theme of the collection was “Writers and Painters,” which was evident through the various colors and patterns often shown together on a single look. But there was nothing bad about these somewhat mix-matched ensembles; everything went together so perfectly to tell a story or paint a picture, just like the theme implied. Almost appearing as a mélange of fauvism, impressionism, and visual poetry, Christopher Bailey’s spring 2014 menswear collection for Burberry Prorsum delineated a wonderful work of art…of course with a charming British attitude.
Overall, London’s expansion of its menswear Fashion Week seems to be moving in the right direction, as the city is certainly teeming with talent. There’s never any shortage of creativity in the English capital, and spring 2014 is looking extremely promising for men. Looking forward to Milan and Paris in the next couple of weeks, there’s a lot to live up to; it looks like London set the bar pretty high.
Stay tuned for the rest of this season’s shows, and check out some of the most noteworthy looks from the latest London Fashion Week menswear presentations!
Just after previewing the fall 2013 ad campaign, Riccardo Tisci gave Style.com an exclusive look at his Givenchy pre-spring 2014 menswear collection. I’ve mentioned before how difficult it can be to keep up with the fast-paced fashion industry, but when it comes to this iconic Parisian fashion house, I’m definitely okay with the constant updates.
This collection is relatively similar to Tisci’s fall 2013 womenswear collection, which was honestly one of my least favorite Givenchy endeavors in recent seasons. For pre-spring 2014 menswear, some of the kitschy flame prints and overzealous florals resurfaced from the women’s pieces, along with an unpleasantly surprising amount of camouflage. But Riccardo Tisci is somewhat of a genius, and he managed to successfully incorporate these elements into the stylish, Latin-inspired “Favelas 74” collection. I still wouldn’t consider this as exciting as a lot of the recent Givenchy collections I’ve seen, but I’m loving these somewhat urban vibes.
Take a glance at some of the most noteworthy looks from Givenchy’s pre-spring 2014 menswear collection!
The fall 2013 collections have already been shown, and it seems like spring 2013 was ages ago. But in the real world, the spring/summer season is upon us, and many of the trends shown almost a year in advance are starting to catch on. Cue the colorful suits.
Designers are turning their backs on traditional black, grey, and navy suits for spring/summer 2013. From subtle pastels to loud neons, the pieces are getting revamped with a heavy dose of color. I’m a big fan of black, white, and neutrals, so I’m kind of surprised to be so into this concept. Regardless, it’s kind of refreshing to see how some collections completely deviated from the typical standard of dress.
Gucci owned this trend with an entire spectrum of the menswear staple. Both bold and bashful blues were shown alongside scorchingly hot pinks, oranges, reds, and other shades. Paul Smith is no stranger to color, featuring similar hues. Meanwhile, Riccardo Tisci included a few pale pink pieces amongst his print-heavy collection for Givenchy. Suits from Salvatore Ferragamo, Hermès, and Mugler also got in on the trend.
You’ve got to have balls to rock these colorful suits, but if you can truly own the styles, then go for it! As shocked as I am about enjoying these looks, I’m an advocate for trying something different. This is one trend I can stand behind.
Check out my favorite colorful suits from spring/summer 2013 below!
My birthday is in exactly 2 weeks, which has got me searching for a lot of different potential gifts. In my hunt, I came across a few gems, and they’re all pretty reasonably priced.
I don’t specifically go bargain shopping, but I definitely get excited when I find an incredible item for less than I’d expect (but really, who doesn’t?). That’s definitely the case with these.
The first item is this leather biker jacket from the Topman Lux collection. It’s 100% authentic leather with a superior cut and silhouette. Honestly, I saw someone wearing this jacket and thought it was Saint Laurent at first glance. One of my pet peeves with the leather jackets I currently have is their gold zippers, so I love the silver details on this. Most importantly, this amazing quality item could go with just about any outfit, adding a luxurious edge. Though it’s one of the best leather jackets I’ve seen, it’s just $400, which is pretty good considering how versatile and long-lasting this piece will be. In a nutshell, I need it.
Also giving me Saint Laurent vibes are these suede monk strap shoes from Zara. At just under $100, they look pristine, yet they can definitely be added to a variety of outfits. This type of shoe is very “in” right now, but this particular pair isn’t a slave to trends and could be worn for years down the line. I’m in love with these, too.
Finally, I’m obsessed with this black leather snapback from online boutique, Stampd. I’ve been on kind of a snapback kick for the past few weeks, and I’ve been all about black leather for quite some time. So can someone please tell me why I don’t own this hat?
Overall, I’ve got to get my hands on all of these.
Hermès definitely knows how to produce some pricey luxury items. If you ever get through the wait list, the famous Birkin bag will cost you at least $20,000. Meanwhile, a plain cotton t-shirt for men comes in at over $300. The latter price seems like nothing compared to the fashion house’s latest release: a men’s t-shirt for $91,500. Now I’m not one to mock the high cost of high fashion, as I respect the craftsmanship and prestige that goes into these pieces. However, I can’t deny I’m a little shocked by that price tag.
The t-shirt is made of crocodile leather, and to be honest, I’m kind of into this. Actually I love it. If I could get my hands on this top without selling my soul or sacrificing a child, I gladly would.