Men’s

Hood by Air Collection Spring Summer 2016 Menswear in Paris

The Boys of Summer

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,

 

The fall 2015 couture shows are trekking along in Paris, but the past few weeks were all about menswear. In London, Milan, and Paris, we got a taste of what’s to come for spring and summer 2016, and designers were giving yet another new twist to typical men’s fashion.

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Clarify

· Editorial, Men's · , , , , , ,

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Photo by Alex Welsh for The New York Times

A New Men’s Mag

· Men's, Thoughts · , , ,

 

When you think about objectifying publications, Maxim would probably be at the top of your list. Referred to by many as the frat-house favorite, Maxim has been known to focus on swimwear, hyper-sexuality, and the hottest female celebrities. But that may be about to change, as the new editor, Kate Lanphear is implementing an entire rebranding strategy. And although men’s fashion is new for both Lanphear and Maxim (there haven’t been too many style pages between all the semi-nude female photos), this new position is poised to bring a major change to men’s magazines.

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Photo Courtesy Senatus

The Fall 2015 Menswear Review

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

Fashion never slows down, especially not right now. As soon as the calendar changed to 2015, a frenzy of shows and presentations kicked off, from pre-fall to haute couture to ready-to-wear and more. But let’s not forget about menswear; the fall 2015 shows just wrapped up, and there’s a lot to talk about.

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Photo Courtesy Lea Colombo for Dazed

The Nature of Nudity

· Men's, Runway, Thoughts · , , , ,

A Rick Owens fashion show is always a big deal, and his latest presentation for his fall 2015 menswear collection was no exception. Titled “Sphinx,” the range included extreme length and dramatic silhouettes aplenty, while studded leather tunics and experimental cuts also had their time to shine. A series of peacoats – though crafted and detailed at a couture-like standard – were more direct than almost anything Owens has ever presented. But that wasn’t the series of items that got the most attention.

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Lift Off

· Editorial, Featured, Men's · , , , ,

 

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David Hart's spring 2015 menswear, Adam Jeffery - CNBC

New York for Guys

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New York Fashion Week has always stood apart from the rest of the major fashion capitals in a lot of ways, one of those being its display – or lack thereof – of men’s fashion. While London, Milan, and Paris each have separate events for the menswear shows, New York has always chosen to do it all at once, resulting in a larger-scale biannual spectacle and a whole lot of action. But now, men’s fashion in the Big Apple might be getting its own time to shine.

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Oppermann-Core-Palissy-1

Oppermann

· Men's, The Come-Up · , , ,

Sometimes it’s a lot harder than you’d think to find the perfect accessories, especially when it comes to menswear. Over-the-top styles make for great statement pieces, but what happened to a traditionally good bag?

Cue Oppermann, the London-based label that fuses luxury and practicality to create undeniably beautiful leather goods. Launched in 2012 by two Swedish brothers, Niklas and Mattis Oppermann, the brand shows the perfect combination of sleek Scandinavian minimalism and cutting-edge London style. And just when it seemed as if the perfect shapes, high-quality materials, and couture-like craftsmanship couldn’t get any better, Oppermann is also using a refreshing new retail model.

Launching this fall, set to make waves through 2015 and beyond, Oppermann will be one of Europe’s first online-only menswear labels. Retailers often mark up the cost of items by at least three times, and by distributing directly from the source, Oppermann offers their pristine products at astonishing prices. But don’t think a reasonable expense means lower quality; the brand is still all about getting better and better with each piece.

As with typical minimalism, the details are what truly make Oppermann’s items stand out. From bags to wallets to leather sleeves and document cases, everything is handmade in Italy, while all materials come from some of the finest European manufacturers. Take the brand’s latest collection, “Surfaces.” Featuring tumbled leather from Tärnsjö Garveri in Sweden, Italian vegetable-tanned leather trims, and zippers from Raccagni, Italy, the items are handcrafted in Naples, Italy to produce duality and versatility. In a nutshell, Oppermann is proving that the pricetag doesn’t have to match the elevated quality, putting the brand in line to be one of the hottest men’s luxury accessories labels.

Get in on the label’s Kickstarter campaign here, and check out some of the awesome items below!:

Oppermann-Core-Goswell Oppermann-Core-Islington Oppermann-Core-Palissy-1 oppermann-palissy-black-2 Oppermann-Surfaces-Collection

All photos courtesy Oppermann London

AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

The Top 10 Collections of the Spring 2015 Menswear Season

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AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

Just like any menswear season, there have been tons of collections between London, Milan, and Paris. And while every single label has presented exceptional work from their tremendously talented teams, there were a few that really blew our minds. Sure, this post might come with a little bit of bias. But once you read about these stunning endeavors, you’re sure to see where we’re coming from. Here are the top 10 collections from the spring 2015 menswear shows (in no particular order) as ranked by Des Phosphènes’ creator & EIC, Scott Shapiro.

 

 

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

To many, Walter Van Beirendonck‘s collections are far from wearable. True, mix-matched prints with lots of powerful subliminal messages might not be everyone’s go-to office attire. But what’s really impressive is the message that accompanies the show. For spring 2015, WVB explored the invasion of privacy as a force worth fighting against, battling it with, for lack of a better word, the best clusterfuck imaginable. It’s wonderfully refreshing to see such creativity from a designer given the circumstances of today’s commercialized fashion industry; Walter Van Beirendonck’s uncompromising vision is far more appealing than any traditional tux.

NEIL BARRETT

Simplicity goes a long way, always making room for the details to shine through. Case in point: Neil Barrett’s spring 2015 menswear collection. The sporty range started off with loads of all-white ensembles, eventually featuring dark blues and violets, camel and camo, all in a whole lot of fantastic fabrics. The bonded fabrics came with bountiful structure; leather, suede, and gabardine gave silhouettes a voluminous yet sleek shape. And don’t even get us started on that to-die-for yellow neoprene jacket. Neil Barrett’s mastery of details in the creation of sharp, relatively minimal designs is what often makes menswear so exciting.

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

If you want to talk about minimalism, look no further than Christophe Lemaire’s spring 2015 menswear endeavor. When reviewing our spring 2015 menswear trend report, you probably noticed a lot from the designer. And it makes sense; the collection showed versatility at its finest, featuring everything from clean white looks to luxury denim to Japanese-inspired styles and more. Of course, every ensemble was a true fashion creation, but the limitless possibilities of how to interpret the pieces allows for plenty of benefits for the Parisian label. We’re sure this collection will face loads of retail and editorial success.

LOU DALTON

Starting off London Fashion Week and the entire spring 2015 menswear show circuit, Lou Dalton nixed the narrative and stuck to the fundamentals of fashion. However, her collection was far from elementary. The tailoring was sharp, a considerably different silhouette from this season’s looser suiting, and these outfits looked phenomenal when paired with simple yet sporty sneakers. Baseball shirts and no-fuss bomber jackets were some of the real stars of the show, while bursts of light blue, pale pink, and vivacious coral truly livened up the looks.

BALENCIAGA

Without the huge production of a runway show, it’s easy to forget that a collection was even presented. But that’s definitely not the case when it comes to Balenciaga, as the historic Parisian fashion house’s men’s department was taken to more modern, urban territory. Alexander Wang’s New York vibes couldn’t be left behind when he took the helm as creative director of Balenciaga, but the designer still knows how to separate his two projects. With new shapes and styles, his latest was full of innovation, from Cocoon-inspired Mackintosh coats to the sleekest of suits. With concealed plackets abound, there were few buttons or closures to be seen. Yet the best part had to be the pairing of these exceptionally elegant ensembles with laid-back trainers. Good ol’ Alex Wang.

RAF SIMONS

Raf Simons is another designer whose amazing collection was highlighted by complexity and immense creativity. His nostalgic references to his past and to several of the elements that have shaped his present were shown through collages of photos with psychological implications, all of which took place on structured yet shapely silhouettes. The show itself was one of the most fascinating of the season; ominous red lights that harkened back to 1970s horror films dominated the display. Meanwhile, vibrant light-up sneakers and inventive printed tops are poised to be some of the hottest pieces of spring 2015.

GIVENCHY

Like many other designers this season, Riccardo Tisci went back to his roots for his spring 2015 Givenchy menswear collection. The end result was far more simplified than his recent collections, featuring a predominantly monochrome version of his urban, streetwear-influenced aesthetic. From the floral camouflage prints to even the skullcaps that the models wore, his latest looks felt fresh and inspiring. And the womenswear ensembles provided an exciting preview of his next ready-to-wear work, looking exceptional on the likes of Adriana Lima and Candice Swanepoel.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

Italo Zucchelli never disappoints at Calvin Klein Collection. This season, the designer’s Milan show featured his signature minimalism in a predominant shade of nude, while pops of bright yellow and orange brought the ensembles to life. Sporty outerwear and vibrant eyewear appeared natural, making way for a wearable, simple yet bold range of menswear looks. The collection proved that aesthetic extras aren’t always necessary, and the straightforward designs were perfect for today’s modern man.

ISSEY MIYAKE

At Issey Miyake, Yusuke Takahashi evoked something different from the predictable, explicitly Japanese-influenced styles. Instead, he drew inspiration from exotic resorts and the landscape of Palau, which resulted in an exciting mélange of innovative design techniques. On a journey from the jungle to the beach into the deep sea, Takahashi explored the construction of fabrics via an unexpected use of pineapple and banana in creating jackets, ultra-flattering pleating to make beautiful gradient prints, and the digital reproduction of colorful images onto his beautiful garments. And just when things couldn’t seem any better, the show was bolstered by upbeat music and smiling models. Talk about good vibes.

LANVIN

The white neoprene outerwear pieces were enough to make us fall in love with the spring 2015 Lanvin menswear collection. But Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver wouldn’t leave it at just that, including super desirable sneakers with their luxury looks. Silky fabrics and loosened shapes were other positives, and leather accessories appeared to be of the highest quality imaginable. Decadent elegance mixed with today’s active, on-the-go energy to create one of the best – and most appropriate – collections of the season.

All photos via Style.com

trends

The Spring 2015 Menswear Trend Report

· Men's, Runway, Trend Reports · , , , , , , ,

trends

Another season of menswear has come and gone, bringing both old and new styles from the world’s top designers. A sharp suit never loses its touch, while sleek minimalism has been reinvented in a variety of ways. And other classics were given unique spins, like the subtle pinstripes seen at Dries Van Noten or Prada’s take on luxury denim. Seasonably appropriate bright colors made an obligatory appearance, too. However, the absence of color is always in, shown by all-white looks at Neil Barrett and Christophe Lemaire. It goes without saying that the sportswear trend has become completely ubiquitous; sneakers and tech fabrics were virtually everywhere, even at the typically refined Ermenegildo Zegna. And who could forget the surfer dudes and beach boys that popped up everywhere from Saint Laurent to Miharayasuhiro? Whether fueled by nostalgia or pure joy, designers proved their immense creativity and inventiveness. Here’s a look at some of the top trends of the spring 2015 menswear season.

 

WORK IT OUT

Maybe it’s the “normcore” movement, or maybe people just want to be a bit more practical. But whatever the reason, sporty fashion isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. More designers than we can count traded in dress shoes for sneakers with their formalwear, with fresh kicks popping up everywhere from Calvin Klein to Lanvin. And lots of sports were getting attention, too; baseball tees were just as common as hoodies and track pants. Meanwhile, athleticism met aestheticism for ballet-inspired garb at Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens, the latter moving his regularly sporty pieces into new territory. While going to the gym could still be a pain in the ass, at least you’ll look stylish as hell during your next workout.

 

 

SURFBOARDT

Yes, we know, surfing is a sport, too. But despite the amount of neoprene this season, most designers weren’t exactly sending wetsuits down the runway. Instead, it was more about the surfer attitude, personified via tie dye at Miharayasuhiro and Kolor and palm tree motifs from the likes of Canali and MSGM. If the beaded necklaces and bracelets à la Kris Van Assche didn’t get the point across enough, then maybe the playful mix-matched prints at Paul Smith would do a better job at embodying the carefree beach boy vibes. And the best part? No surf skills are required to rock these styles.

 

 

GOOD JEANS

Denim is one of those things that’s so omnipresent that it would seem weird for it to be considered a trend. But for spring 2015 menswear, designers have been taking your favorite jeans and putting them in a completely different frame. Just check out Phillip Lim’s denim jumpsuit, or the all-denim suit seen at Dior Homme. And it’s impossible to ignore the crazy prints on the fabric at Sibling or the atypical variations at Junya Watanabe. Even Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens incorporated some denim into their unique aesthetics. On one hand, everybody’s got some jeans they can use to fit into this trend. But let’s just say you’re going to have to step it up to meet these designer denim standards.

 

 

JUMP ON IT

Speaking of that denim number at Phillip Lim, jumpsuits have become quite a thing this season. Well, maybe not every designer has gotten into the idea of a men’s one-piece, but Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo were sure feeling it. Give it some time, and we have a feeling plenty more labels are going to jump on this trend.

 

 

STYLE SOLDIERS

Like many other trends, military-inspired looks have been presented in fresh new ways this season. Christopher Bailey always reinvents and masters the army aesthetic at Burberry, and that was no different this time around. Meanwhile, outerwear with utilitarian pockets and epaulets were ever present at Louis Vuitton, and Christophe Lemaire added a similar slant to his monochrome collection. And what would military fashion be without some camouflage? If you want the classic print, then Valentino had plenty of looks for that. But the floral camo shown at Givenchy and the modernized, graphic versions at Sacai were just as noteworthy.

 

 

SPRING/SUMMER OF ’69

From the late 1960s through the 1970s, this era of bohemian style meshed perfectly with classically tailored leisure suits. Antonio Marras veered towards the latter, while Topman Design paid homage to Woodstock. And while Katie Eary’s collection felt relatively Western, there was a noticeable throwback element, too. Whether you’re feeling the sophisticated side from Tom Ford or a bit more like Saint Laurent’s spin on Jimi Hendrix, now would definitely be the time to hit up your favorite vintage shop.

 

 

EARN YOUR STRIPES

Another classic turned on its head, the pinstripe has gotten completely rejuvenated for spring 2015. Sure, the suiting at Trussardi could’ve come straight out of the 1940s. But the 3D stripes at Margiela and the always-eccentric variations at J.W. Anderson felt totally fresh. And let’s not leave out labels like E. Tautz and Matthew Miller, who essentially kicked off this trend during London Collections: Men. Who said this pattern had to be boring?

 

 

WHITE OUT

It was no surprise when we saw all-white ensembles at minimalist labels like Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. But we’d almost forgotten how essential this look is for summertime, proven by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Lou Dalton, and many, many more. All black will always be a thing, and plenty of other colors are having a moment this season, too. But sometimes white is right, and that’s that.

 

 

HERE COMES THE SUN

One of those other colors currently having a moment is yellow. Whether mellow or vibrant, there’s been a whole lot of jaune this season. Acne showed us that there’s nothing to be afraid of when it comes to wearing a big bright yellow jacket, while Berluti sent out a whole range of styles in the sunny shade. And we have to talk about the yellow neoprene jacket from Neil Barrett. Alongside things like the little pops at Calvin Klein, designers made it clear that this is going to be a pretty bright season, and there’s nothing to be afraid of.

 

 

REAL MEN WEAR PINK

Another color that used to formerly terrify men everywhere, pink has been shown as more masculine than ever thanks to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and other A-list labels. Marc Jacobs’ playful flamingo prints showed a fun way to incorporate this hue into your spectrum; pieces at Thom Browne and Comme des Garçons put the creators’ signature eccentricity in the bold shade. And with Rick Owens even featuring a rose ensemble, it’s obvious that it’s time to think pink.

 

 

EASTWARD BOUND

Eastern cultures have always been a huge inspiration for designers across the globe, and that was just as evident this season as ever. Raf Simons‘ nostalgic collection featured a series of Japanese-inspired prints, a thank you note to some of his earliest supporters. At Agi & Sam, the London-based design duo took things almost literally with kimono-esque tops and sandals worn with socks. And they weren’t alone; Craig Green, Phillip Lim, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake, and plenty of others got in on the action, experimenting with everything from traditional Japanese garb to streetwear to minimalism and more. While we’d love to see what’s really going on over in Tokyo, this current Eastern obsession is definitely looking good.

 

 

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S ROBES

Not quite kimonos, long silk robes are making an unexpected appearance in the men’s fashion sphere. Dries Van Noten was on top of this trend, sending a whole series of similar styles down the runway at his romantic Paris show. Haider Ackermann loves a good robe, too, so it’s no surprise that we saw one or two in his collection. A couple pieces at Umit Benan had us headed straight for the shower, while Hedi Slimane gave his signature rock ‘n’ roll, bohemian touch to a variation at Saint Laurent. Like jumpsuits, it might take a minute or two for this fad to catch on. But if anything, it’s definitely refreshing to see designers’ new takes on traditional men’s fashion.

All photos courtesy Style.com