For many people, the name Sybilla doesn’t ring a bell. This is kind of surprising, considering the designer is arguably one of the biggest things in Spanish fashion since Cristobal Balenciaga. Sybilla launched her label in 1983, but after fashion began to move at a rate that she felt she couldn’t keep up with, she left the industry in 2005. It’s admirable to say the least; we’ve seen countless examples of designers succumbing to the pressure of commercial demand in relation to their own creative expression. Meanwhile, Sybilla’s been giving back since her departure from fashion, developing agricultural projects and opening a school in Majorca in order to offer solutions to some of today’s more pressing issues.
But now Sybilla’s back, and she’s bringing the highlights of her brand along with her.
This year’s Met exhibit, “Charles James: Beyond Fashion” celebrates the designs of one of America’s most coveted couturiers. His undeniably elegant and glamorous work was to be reflected in an ultra-formal, “white tie” dress-code at this year’s Met Gala, arguably the biggest event in fashion.
Of course, not everyone went by the dress code. You’d think that the theme of elaborate ball gowns would be pretty easy to get into, but just like last year’s Punk-themed fête, a lot of guests somehow managed to completely miss the mark. For many, this actually resulted in some pretty great looks. Take Rihanna for example. The singer – who will be honored with a style icon award at the June 2 CFDA awards – definitely proved her credentials. In a so-not-Charles-James custom Stella McCartney ensemble, Riri showed her immaculate midriff via a white long-sleeve crop top with structured shoulders and a matching long skirt. Honorable mention goes to her curly up-do and “stoner eyes.” McCartney also dressed Kate Bosworth, Reese Witherspoon and Cara Delevingne, whose casual outfit comprised of a revealing black crop top with white trousers. Charles James, who?
We need to talk about Jay Z and Beyoncé for a second, too, or as some like to call them, the king and queen of the universe. The majestic couple, who recently made headlines with the announcement of their joint summer tour, looked nothing short of incredible. Both wore custom Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci, with Hov donning a pristine white jacket, and Bey wearing a mostly sheer, black embellished number. Her beaded fishnet veil completed the already divine look, as if the duo could be any more perfect. Frank Ocean, Naomi Watts, Laetitia Casta, and Riccardo Tisci’s date, Naomi Campbell also stunned in Givenchy, though few looked even nearly as breathtaking as Adriana Lima did in her brown sequined gown with a matching leather bustier. Oh, and let’s not forget Erykah Badu, who also slaughtered it. The current face of the label and muse to Riccardo Tisci essentially shitted on everyone with her voluminous, embellished suit and matching over-the-top hat that put Pharrell’s famous Vivienne Westwood cap to shame.
Keeping things in theme, a handful of ladies wore Zac Posen, one of the most similar designers of our time to Charles James. Liu Wen really turned heads in a ginormous ball gown by the New York-based designer and makeup that looked as if it could’ve been personally applied by God. Sarah Silverman went with a similar burgundy number, joking, “it’s like a fucking second skin!” Even though the comedian might have been a little bit of an uncoordinated mess on the red carpet, she looked surprisingly stunning, as did Dita Von Teese (minus the surprising part), who wore a form-fitting Posen-designed version of Charles James’ Clover Leaf gown in nude and red. And what about Karen Elson, who looked like she stepped directly out of the 1950s? Would it be appropriate to say, “yaaaaass?”
Topshop whipped up a frock for it-girl Kendall Jenner, as well as Toni Garrn, Jourdan Dunn and Chanel Iman. But none of the ladies looked like they were in fast-fashion, especially not Jourdan Dunn, who served early 1990s Tyra Banks realness in a refreshing canary yellow gown, subtle jewels, and a sleek up-do. Sorry to play favorites, but homegirl was definitely on top of it. This would definitely be the right time for a “yaaaaass.” The other three looked great, too, and Chanel Iman looked even better next to her beau, A$AP Rocky. Let’s face it, the guys generally looked painfully boring in their one-note tuxedos, aside from the ridiculous circus outfits worn by Neil Patrick Harris and David Burtka. But Chanel’s rapper boyf looked kind of really awesome, pairing his sophisticated tuxedo with sleek boots and his own natural style. Andrew Garfield, whose girlfriend Emma Stone looked vibrant yet super casual in a Thakoon ensemble, kept things relatively interesting with a metallic Band of Outsiders tux. But just about every other guy’s coat-tailed tuxedos looked like some type of costume. We know it’s the Costume Institute Gala, but for real, you guys look so lame it hurts. Even a little shade could be thrown Kanye’s way; what happened to the guy who used to be known for wearing red suits? Him and Kim didn’t look too bad, though, as the reality TV starlet cleaned up nicely in her Lanvin look.
Other highlights and lowlights included the usually incredible Lupita Nyong’o in a questionable custom beaded Prada number, Rita Ora ruining what could’ve been a beautiful Donna Karan gown by looking like she rolled around in a New Jersey dumpster, Anne Hathaway showing another example of a perfectly done crop top with her red Calvin Klein outfit, Taylor Swift looking like an Oscar de la Renta Barbie doll and Kylie Minogue looking insanely basic in what appears to be a prom gown by Marchesa. Other catastrophes included Katie Holmes dressed up as Belle from Beauty and the Beast and Elizabeth Olsen running a few months late to the Winter Olympics in her Miu Miu ice skater outfit. In general, the 2014 Met Gala red carpet was kind of boring, sometimes stunning and occasionally disturbing. But instead of going into details about who, what and why things kind of sucked, we invite you to check out some of the most noteworthy looks from the event below and share your comments!
Jay Z and Beyoncé, both in Givenchy Haute Couture
Lupita Nyong’o in custom Prada
Kim Kardashian and Kanye West, both in custom Lanvin
Rihanna in custom Stella McCartney
Gisele Bündchen in custom Balenciaga, and Tom Brady in Tom Ford
Reese Witherspoon in Stella McCartney, Stella McCartney in her own design, and Kate Bosworth in Stella McCartney
Cara Delevingne in custom Stella McCartney
Karen Elson in Zac Posen, Zac Posen, and Dita Von Teese in Zac Posen
Riccardo Tisci and Naomi Campbell in Givenchy Haute Couture
Naomi Watts in Givenchy Haute Couture
Bradley Cooper in Tom Ford and Sarah Jessica Parker in Oscar de la Renta
Blake Lively in Gucci Première and Ryan Reynolds in Gucci
Karolina Kurkova in Marchesa
Vera Wang and Joan Smalls in a dress by the designer
Rosie Huntington-Whiteley in Balmain with designer Olivier Rousteing
Rita Ora in Donna Karan Atelier
Anne Hathaway in Calvin Klein Collection with designer Francisco Costa
David Beckham in Ralph Lauren and Victoria Beckham in her own design
Emma Stone in custom Thakoon with designer Thakoon Panichgul
Taylor Swift in Oscar de la Renta
Kristen Wiig in Balenciaga with designer Alexander Wang
Imogen Poots in Proenza Schouler with designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez
Katie Holmes in Marchesa
Kendall Jenner in custom Topshop
Jourdan Dunn and Toni Garrn, both in custom Topshop
Kirsten Dunst in Rodarte
Karlie Kloss in Oscar de la Renta
Rachel McAdams in Ralph Lauren
Gugu Mbatha-Raw in custom Lanvin with designer Alber Elbaz
Erykah Badu in Givenchy Haute Couture
Leighton Meester in Emilio Pucci with designer Peter Dundas
Chanel Iman in custom Topshop with A$AP Rocky
Elizabeth Olsen in custom Miu Miu
Lily Aldridge in Michael Kors
Frank Ocean in custom Givenchy
Lena Dunham in Giambattista Valli with designer Giambattista Valli
Liu Wen in Zac Posen
Amber Valletta in Saint Laurent
Kylie Minogue in Marchesa
Laetitia Casta in Givenchy Haute Couture
Nicole Richie in Donna Karan Atelier
Jake Gyllenhaal in Givenchy with Maggie Gyllenhaal in Valentino
Lily Donaldson in Burberry
Kate Upton in Dolce & Gabbana Alta Moda with Domenico Dolce
Sarah Silverman in Zac Posen
Janelle Monae in Tadashi Shoji
Selena Gomez in Diane von Furstenberg
Gabrielle Union in custom Prada
Andrew Garfield in Band of Outsiders
Neil Patrick Harris and David Burtka, both in Thom Browne
Both weekends of Coachella have already flown by, but festival season is just beginning. Whether you’re hitting up Governor’s Ball, Bonnaroo, Firefly, Outside Lands, Made in America or any of the other music festivals going on over the course of the next few months, you can’t deny the recent obsession with dressing for the occasion.
Perhaps a result of the street style phenomenon, everyone’s paying more attention to what others are wearing to these events than ever before. And just like the former, a lot of ridiculous, over-the-top styles are sure to be seen. Regardless of what you choose to wear, there’s a lot to consider when putting together your most stylish festival look. What are the weather conditions? Would this “tribal” accessory be considered offensive? (yes, most likely). Sure, it’s easy to just throw on your wreath of flowers and John Lennon-inspired shades and call it a day, but no one wants to look generic. And while picking out an outfit for whichever huge festival you choose to attend may seem like the most important thing in the world, it’s necessary to remember that these events are basically like huge parties – there’s no need to get so serious.
While we could present countless tips on how to put together your outfit, here’s a handful of Do’s and Don’ts regarding festival dressing:
DO be practical.
Pretty much all of these music festivals are taking place in North America over the summer, and in case you forgot, this usually means heat. No matter how you choose to facilitate the party, it’s essential to stay hydrated and healthily nourished. Of course, what you wear is just as important; that suede fringe jacket might be awesome, but is it really worth the heat stroke? And even if you dress according to the weather, you still have to keep comfort at least somewhere in your mind. These three or four day-long parties can often be energetic and exhausting, and you’re probably going to be doing a lot of moving around. Simple shorts and stylish sneakers make for a casual cool look more than a silk skirt and strappy sandals, while graphic prints look just as good on a t-shirt as they do on a (relatively inappropriate) cocktail dress. There’s always a way to incorporate a unique sense of fashion into a look without compromising safety or enjoyment.
DON’T be a cliché.
This is kind of a recurring theme when it comes to style tips, but it’s essential to address. It seems like there are a few things that show up at just about every music festival. Fringe, studs, flower headbands, round sunglasses, acid wash denim shorts, those fuzzy leg warmer things and plenty of other pieces just won’t go away. While there’s definitely a way to add your own twist to any of these belabored concepts, sometime’s it’s better to just avoid them at all costs. The “basic bitch” is a real thing, and no one wants to be categorized as such. Instead, opt for subtle yet interesting embellishments on tops and bottoms or pops of color for monochrome ensembles. There are so, so many ways to get your outfit in the festive spirit without getting literally lost in the crowd.
The right way, that is. In the pursuit of the balance between style and comfort, an outfit can often become relatively lackluster. While many accessories can launch you into “basic” territory (see above), there are plenty of fun ways to liven up a look. From streetwear-inspired snapbacks to ladylike sun hats, headgear is the perfect addition to a simple ensemble. While piling on wristbands and multicolored “candy” beads is less than favorable, tastefully quirky jewelry can also spruce up what you’re wearing. And sunglasses in different shapes and colors can also bring something extra, given that they’re not the same styles seen throughout the crowd.
DON’T do the cultural appropriation thing.
It’s stupid that this even has to be considered as a relevant style tip, yet Native American headdresses and war paint still seemed ubiquitous at this year’s Coachella. One accessory to definitely never wear, the feathered garnish has a deeper cultural meaning than just a funky hat, and wearing it represents a complete disregard for the ongoing struggle faced by the Native American people throughout U.S. history. Even after the backlash regarding the outfit Victoria’s Secret put Karlie Kloss in and the equally offensive gear recently shown at Chanel, people still don’t get it. Regardless, wearing one of these is worse than looking “basic.” Instead, you’d simply look like an insensitive asshole. It goes without saying that carelessly wearing pieces from other indigenous tribes across the globe would be equally tasteless, i.e: don’t wear a shuka unless you’re actually a Maasai tribesman/woman. Moral of the story: if you question whether or not something could be seen as offensive, it probably is, and you probably shouldn’t wear it.
There are plenty more Do’s and Don’ts of festival dressing, but sometimes it’s better to explain things visually. So, here are a couple examples of appropriate festival dressing for both girls and guys (click on the thumbnail of each item for more details):
Of course, remember to always make a look your own, and enjoy whichever music festivals you’re attending this summer!
And that’s a wrap! In the blink of an eye, New York, London, Milan and Paris Fashion Weeks have all flown by, while January’s fall 2014 menswear shows are already a thing of the past. Yeah, the fashion industry seems like it’s moving faster than ever, leaving us all in some sort of disoriented blur. However, there are still some moments from both the men’s and women’s shows that took place over the past couple of months that really stood out. Whether fashion shows spectacles or simply stunning pieces and collections, here are the top 20 best moments, items, collections and more from the fall 2014 season (in no particular order).
Photo by Scott Shapiro
The fall 2014 menswear shows brought a lot of impressive work from the world’s top designers. But some of the best looks came from relatively lesser-known labels. In Paris, 22/04 and Y Project‘s shows of both menswear and womenswear presented some wearable yet totally unique styles. The two labels shared urban aesthetics in ultra-luxurious materials and construction, making them noteworthy ones to watch.
Photo by Boutayna Fartale
Though underrated masters showed their skills, the big names were still on top of the game. For Givenchy, that game was basketball, which went surprisingly well with Riccardo Tisci’s Bauhaus inspiration. The master of street chic, Tisci created a to-die-for range of printed sweatshirts, sleek sneakers and awesome outerwear that will surely be on our wish lists this fall.
Photo by Boutayna Fartale
Like Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy, Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver got a little urban for Lanvin’s fall 2014 menswear collection. Featuring sneakers that will probably sell like crazy, amazingly sleek outerwear and graphic tops, all worn by an army of models with the coolest haircuts around, the collection was easily one of the best of the season.
Photo by Scott Shapiro
In case the already-mentioned menswear collections – and a bunch of this season’s womenswear collections – didn’t get the message across, let’s put it simply: sportswear has been huge lately. From the shoes to the outerwear to the fabric and more, it seems like everyone’s getting ready to run for fall 2014. But what’s more important is the practicality and usefulness of this trend. Yes, finally, an explosive trend that actually mixes style with comfort.
Vogueing at HBA
Photo Courtesy NY Mag
While few things could ever top the step dancing routine Rick Owens used in place of a traditional fashion show last season, designer Shayne Oliver came pretty close this season. At the conclusion of his extremely urban Hood By Air fall 2014 ready-to-wear show during New York Fashion Week, a series of dancers from different houses and teams fiercely vogued down the runway. A dramatic show finale at the beginning of Fashion Month, it was definitely a refreshing and unique way to show clothes.
Off to Brooklyn
Photo Courtesy AP
Plenty of designers chose to step away from the typical New York Fashion Week venues at Lincoln Center, but no one would ever think to head over to Brooklyn. That is, until Alexander Wang decided to do so. Wang felt that Brooklyn’s Navy Yard reflected the mood of his collection, forcing industry insiders to trek over to the spot by water taxi (though it’s likely that a lot came by water taxi). For those who attended, the trip was worth it, as they got to witness one of the most impressive shows of the season.
Photo Courtesy Jonathan Simkhai
One of the best moments during NYFW came from a single look, that being the logo sweatshirt shown in Jonathan Simkhai’s fall 2014 lookbook. Simply reading “Simkhai,” the oversized pinstriped top perfectly embodied his sporty-luxe aesthetic. We’re sure a lot of people will be team Simkhai this season.
Diversity at Burberry
Photos Courtesy WWD
This season unfortunately saw a substantial amount of shows with mostly white casts. While this lack of diversity is extremely upsetting, we do have to acknowledge those who saw the globe as the multifaceted place that it truly is. Cue Burberry Prorsum, where Christopher Bailey and co. cast a diverse cast that not only adequately reflected London’s multiethnic population, but that of the entire world. There are still several improvements that need to be made, but at least some people are finally living up to the truly global nature of the fashion industry.
Photo Courtesy Imaxtree via Tom + Lorenzo
It’s safe to say that Jeremy Scott’s first collection for Moschino was a little over-the-top. From a manipulated McDonald’s logo to Cheetos and nutrition facts printed onto eveningwear, things went a little crazy. To many, the collection was so ridiculous that it couldn’t be taken seriously, while others proposed that this was the type of fun that fashion desperately needs. Regardless, one thing’s for sure: the kitschy gear will likely sell like wildfire.
Photos Courtesy Style.com
Dreamlike knitwear, perfectly tailored neoprene suits and pops of color? Yes, please. The fall 2014 Iceberg collection might have gotten lost in the midst of the Milan Fashion Week highlights, but this space-age fantasy was definitely one of the best ranges we’ve seen all season.
Keeping Up with Kendall
Photo Courtesy Raannt
We just talked about Kendall Jenner‘s rise to fame and the polarizing effect it’s had on many people in the fashion industry. But with the Kardashian-by-association walking for A-list shows like Marc Jacobs, Giles, Givenchy and Chanel, it’s safe to say we’ve got a new face to watch. If her latest bookings didn’t convince you, her support from LOVE Magazine’s Katie Grand will probably work up something to do the trick.
Photo Courtesy Imaxtree via Fashionista
Rick Owens’ latest presentation wasn’t as inspirational as last season’s dance show, but his appreciation for various types of beauty was just as great. Featuring young and old models of multiple sizes and ethnicities, the designer proved that there’s more than one look that fits into his edgy ensembles.
Kenzo x David Lynch
Photo Courtesy Kenzo
For their Opening Ceremony show in New York, Carol Lim and Humberto Leon literally made chocolate drip from the walls. So how did the team top their spectacle for the Kenzo show in Paris? By teaming up with legendary filmmaker, David Lynch, of course. Lynch is no stranger to designing settings, as his conception of Paris’ Silencio club truly showed his creative genius. The “Mysterioso” theme was conveyed through a maze-like runway surrounded by mirrors, while a large, distorted clay head stood in the center of it all. “He really designed the entire thing,” said Leon, mentioning that Lynch even contributed to directing the way the models walked. The director also created a 16-minute soundtrack for the show, adding the cherry on top of the surreal masterpiece that meshed fashion with a totally different form of creativity.
The Chanel Shopping Center
Photo Courtesy Style Anywhere
Though not a surrealist invention like that of the Kenzo show, Karl Lagerfeld’s “Chanel Shopping Center” set was definitely a highlight of Fashion Month. The designer transformed the Grand Palais into a supermarket decked out entirely with Chanel products, including Chanel spaghetti, produce and much more. Meanwhile, editors, models, Rihanna and others played around with the elaborate layout, making it a necessary fun time in the midst of the Fashion Week chaos.
Photo Courtesy T Magazine
In case anyone forgot, there were clothes that went along with the Chanel spectacle. And there were shoes, too, specifically some noteworthy sneakers. The sporty kicks showed up in Chanel’s latest couture show, and Kaiser Karl didn’t ditch them when it came time for ready-to-wear. Though there are plenty more designers who’ve mastered this style of footwear on a higher level, there’s no doubt that the Chanel sneakers are going to own the fall 2014 season.
Photo Courtesy Imaxtree via Fashionista
Back on the topic of sets, Iris Van Herpen got in on the elaborate action, too. The ambiance featured fully dressed models like Iekeliene Stange and Soo Joo Park shrink-wrapped in giant plastic bags, hoisted in the air in fetal position…yeah. Don’t worry, the girls were given oxygen through tubes, though their petrified facial expressions didn’t make things any less shocking. The feminine yet futuristic collection supported the antics, including the crazy footwear. A far cry from sneakers, heel-less seven-inch platforms with shin guards that wrapped around the backs of the models’ knees were designed in collaboration with United Nude. Who do you think had a harder time, the models in the plastic wrap or the ones navigating the runway?
The Comeback Kid
Photo Courtesy New York Times
To put it simply, Nicolas Ghesquière won Fashion Month. The iconic designer’s long-awaited comeback as the creative director at Louis Vuitton was phenomenal, displaying an ultra-modern, hyper-luxurious collection of understated strength. There’s not much to be said, other than thank goodness Nicolas and his immeasurable skills are back in the design arena.
Photos Courtesy Imaxtree
One of the highlights of Nicolas Ghesquière’s comeback collection was the top model cast; the show opened with another comeback, that of Freja Beha Erichsen, and the stunning Liya Kebede and Maggie Rizer added to the lineup. Season after season, we’re exposed to new crops of nameless, essentially faceless models who dominate the runways. But for the fall 2014 ready-to-wear shows, we got a fair dose of old supermodels, too. As Natasha Poly opened Prada, Naomi Campbell, Irina Shayk, Anne Vyalitsyna, Izabel Goulart and Lindsay Ellingson joined the cast at Philipp Plein’s Milan show. Meanwhile, Balenciaga brought out ladies like Caroline Trentini and Mariacarla Boscono, who also appeared at Givenchy (alongside Karen Elson, nonetheless). Oh, and Gisele Bündchen closed Balenciaga, too…casual.
Photo Courtesy The Citizens of Fashion
Street style and celebrity fascination are two inevitable yet obnoxious elements of Fashion Month. Yet somehow, Rihanna mixed those two things perfectly during her time in Paris, and everyone was all about it. Whether doing menswear chic at Lanvin or baring it all at Balmain, @badgalriri really killed it in the style game this season.
Photo Courtesy Getty Images
It’s the little things that count. Lupita Nyong’o sat front row at the Miu Miu show fresh off her Oscar win for best supporting actress. On the last day of Fashion Month, it’s likely that everyone else in room was feeling substantially more exhausted than Hollywood’s it-girl. Yet the gorgeous budding fashion icon and face of the label’s spring 2014 ads was as charming as ever, taking selfies with fellow attendees and politely introducing herself to everyone in her row. After a hectic month of fashion shows, this type of positive attitude is the best thing you could ask for.
Well, that’s all for now. Here’s to looking forward to more spectacular moments during next season’s shows!
You blinked, and the fashion world is back in its usual frenzy. While all eyes are on New York at the moment, it doesn’t end there, as the fashion set will head from the Big – currently frozen – Apple to London, Milan and Paris in no time. It seems like it’s always Fashion Week somewhere, with street style photogs snapping away at the most ridiculous ensembles and esteemed editors taking notes on the biggest things of the season. But throughout the four “majors,” there’s a lot to be seen over the course of this month-long whirlwind.
What does this mean, you ask? Well, take away all of the chaos and hype that’s enveloped the events and brace yourselves for some serious styles, because this is a crucial time to see what’s next in the ever-changing industry. Everyone’s anticipating where stories like those of Marc Jacobs or Nicolas Ghesquière will go; how will Jacobs’ shifted focus entirely on his namesake label change things for the labels he used to helm? As Ghesquière takes over one of said labels, that being Louis Vuitton, we anxiously anticipate his long-awaited comeback after his departure from Balenciaga. Speaking of which, what will Alexander Wang stir up this season? Will it be a continuation of his safe yet sartorially friendly work at Nicolas’ old post, or will he take the neon-flared girl of the future from his own Brooklyn show this past weekend to the next level?
And the revolving door doesn’t stop spinning just yet. After the departure of trendsetters like Jil Sander and Ann Demeulemeester from their own houses, there’s something compelling about the possibility of new designer takeovers. Meanwhile, there’s always the possibility of random, unexpected exits and entrances in this crazy industry. Let’s not forget the constant interest and excitement that always surrounds some of the big players, as Riccardo Tisci’s cult following at Givenchy is stronger than ever, the world can’t wait to see how Rick Owens will follow up his spring 2014 ready-to-wear step dance show, and there’s always something influential brewing in the mind of Miuccia Prada.
It’s definitely all about the clothes, but it’s hard to ignore that undeniable popularity contest that consumes Fashion Month. And no, we’re not talking about which peacocking blogger attracted the most street style photographers or whose Instagram got the most likes (though these could still be entertaining things to watch). What’s really pressing is whose collections will stand out as some of the most inspiring of the season, or whose show will save us from monotony by taking us to a new sensory extreme. And we can’t forget the models. Which girls from last season will stick it out this time around, and who can we expect to see dominating the runways for the next few weeks (spoiler: some of the many girls from the latest Prada ads will surely show up somewhere)? And on a more serious model-related note, will designers and casting directors finally embrace some more diversity?
If this unspoken popularity contest is truly present, then all the cool kids have got to go somewhere, right? Sure, there will be some badasses hanging in the bathroom à la Anna Ewers in Alexander Wang’s 90’s throwback ad campaign, but no one cares unless they’re sitting on the chicest toilets in the city. From Back Bar and the Boom Boom Room in New York to Silencio and Le Carmen in Paris, if we can’t directly get in on the Fashion Week action, we know where to find the “in crowd.” And if anything, we know whose Tweets and Instagrams to check out for some good ol’ vicarious living (we’re looking at you, Derek Blasberg).
Finally, while Des Phosphènes’ coverage of the fall 2014 ready-to-wear shows won’t be nearly as involved as that of the most recent menswear shows, stay tuned for some highlights from the current circuit.
The spring 2014 menswear shows don’t seem like they happened too long ago. Yet it’s already time for the next batch of men’s collections to be shown, as the fall/winter 2014/2015 menswear presentations have already kicked off in London. And that’s just the start of it; after a few days of Britain’s best men’s fashion, Milan and Paris will each take their turns to show us what they’ve got.
Although the menswear niche hasn’t entirely earned the same popularity as the ready-to-wear and haute couture collections, there are plenty of things to be excited about regarding the current state of men’s fashion, especially within the next three weeks.
London Collections: Men
In its fourth consecutive season, London Collections: Men is doing more than just going strong. And this time, there’s a lot more to be recognized. Always celebrating the tight-knit British fashion community, the first three days of menswear shows will feature presentations from iconic brands like Tom Ford, Burberry Prorsum, and Alexander McQueen. But that’s not all, as London is known for its support of both established and emerging labels, which means impressive designs from the likes of Nicole Farhi, Agi and Sam, Xander Zhou, Duchamp, Oliver Spencer, and many more.
More from Stefano Pilati
Few designers have made such a swift transition from one house to another as Stefano Pilati. After his departure from Yves Saint Laurent, the mastermind put his own mark on his first collection at Ermenegildo Zegna menswear. There was a remarkable note of Pilati’s own sartorial supremacy in the spring 2014 designs, and we can hardly wait to see how he interprets his ideas for fall.
Raf Simons x Sterling Ruby
“For one season, the brand ‘Raf Simons’ will not exist,” the designer said in an interview with Style.com. For fall 2014, Simons enlisted Sterling Ruby, coined “one of the most interesting artists to emerge in this century” by The New York Times, and the collaboration is set to add a dynamic aspect that’s long been missing from the fashion world. While his last collection was certainly art-inspired, Simons reportedly made every decision in correspondence with Ruby, forming something of a temporary design duo. However, possibly the most interesting and exciting part is how Sterling Ruby’s messy, almost grungy work could inform Raf Simons’ signature precision. Art and fashion go hand-in-hand as nearly interchangeable genres, yet we haven’t seen such a strong fusion of the two in quite a while. Raf Simons/Sterling Ruby fall 2014 is sure to express a necessary sense of intellectual depth, powerful pieces, and most importantly, monumental creativity.
Raf Simons and Sterling Ruby’s fall 2014 collection is set to show in Paris on January 15, but that’s not all the city’s got going on this season. After a phenomenal 2013, it’s exciting to see how Riccardo Tisci plans to start off his year. His menswear pieces are always sartorial staples, and we’re anxiously awaiting the next printed tees and sharp silhouettes. Speaking of silhouettes, how much more slender will Hedi Slimane take his men at Saint Laurent? Though he’s safely secured his spot as fashion’s latest bad boy, Slimane has also added an enticing energy that we’re beginning to look forward to the more we experience it. What will be Rick Owens’ next spectacle, and what can we expect to see from the likes of Lanvin, Dior, Hermès, Dries van Noten, and the rest of the icons who define Paris? We can hardly wait for the season’s culmination in the City of Lights.
Autumn/winter is possibly the best time for men’s fashion, presenting beautiful outerwear, strong tailoring, and lots of items that aren’t limited to the unbearable heat. It’s hard to be anything less than ecstatic about a whole new variety of coats in every color and style, loads of luxurious leather, some of the best boots imaginable, and a wide range of velvet, fur, suede, and other seasonably appropriate fabrics. Sure, in this freezing cold weather, it’s likely that we all want some warmth. But it’s hard to deny the beauty that comes with autumn and winter attire.
The fashion crowd definitely knows that London, Milan, and Paris all boast some pretty impressive nightlife, and the menswear fashion weeks are no less fun than ready-to-wear or couture. Though most likely less hectic than the womenswear fêtes, there are sure to be some fantastic festivities in between the menswear presentations. Stay tuned for some upcoming events in the fashion capitals’ hot spots.
Keeping it Real
While the street style phenomenon that wreaks havoc on the scene at the ready-to-wear shows doesn’t completely pass over the men’s shows, things are definitely a lot more toned-down. There’s bound to be less madness, crowds, and overall nonsense surrounding the less-publicized menswear presentations, which thankfully reminds us about the real reason everyone is gathered at these events.
Possibly the most exciting announcement is Des Phosphènes’ official involvement in this season’s menswear presentations. While the past ready-to-wear shows exposed the general atmosphere, and there was quite a bit of reporting done on the last set of men’s shows, we’ll finally be taking part in some of the presentations in London and Paris (unfortunately, we couldn’t do Milan this season). And even though we haven’t completely established our photography crew and a slew of reporters, this season is definitely a milestone in our journey towards legitimate reportage within the fashion industry, and we couldn’t be happier.
Here’s to an exciting few weeks of fall/winter 2014/2015 menswear shows!
The energy of Paris Fashion Week is the type of thing that sticks around for life. After only my first experience with a monumental fashion week, I’m already addicted to the atmosphere, the vitality, and the fashion that exudes from every corner of Paris. Though the energy died down a bit- everyone gets exhausted by the end of Fashion Month- there was still so much beauty and inspiration to be seen. Already nostalgic, I can’t wait for next season’s madness and excitement. But hopefully next time I’ll be reporting from the other side ;).
If the last post didn’t do it for you, there’s plenty more Paris Fashion Week where that came from (please excuse that awful cliché). Those few ensembles that are less thirsty and more tasteful truly give me life; impeccable style is honestly its own art form. But let’s be real, insane outfits can get a little tiresome. What never seems to get old, however, is seeing models in person, as the stunning faces that grace magazines and runways are even more mind-bogglingly incredible in real life. What especially stood out to me was a more personal encounter with my current favorite, Malaika Firth. In her first season, the exquisite Kenyan-born mannequin is already owning runways, though she balances her success with a pleasant, polite attitude. When struggling to understand a French voicemail, I had the privilege to briefly aid her, commemorated by the photo above. Sorry if I seem like an obsessive fan, but it’s not every day I’m exceptionally inspired by a model, especially not a new face. Not since Gemma Ward’s heyday has a girl looked so amazing.
Okay, but let’s stay on topic.
On a less positive, though extremely humorous note, protestors from the Ukrainian feminist group, FEMEN stormed the Nina Ricci runway earlier this week, making headlines for their shirtless shenanigans. Yes, two members of the radical organization really took their tops off to reveal the phrases “model do not go to brothel” and “fashion dictaterror.” I’m not really sure what these ladies were trying to accomplish, as their poorly written slogans imply illiteracy. Unfortunately, FEMEN’s ability to make it on the runway resulted in heightened security at the rest of Paris’ top shows. Keep it classy, ladies.
There’s plenty more to be said about wonderful encounters with the likes of Grace Coddington, Anna Dello Russo, Liu Wen, and others, as well as precious puppies at Maison Martin Margiela and melancholy makeup at Comme des Garçons. But why not have a look for yourself?