Sure, we all know about Dior, Givenchy, Marc Jacobs, and more. Even newer labels like Hood By Air and Telfar are on their way to becoming household names. But what about the many lesser-known brands out there? Whether based in fashion capitals like New York or London or in less-commonly explored locations like Nigeria, here’s a handful of designers and labels to keep an eye on.
For many people, the name Sybilla doesn’t ring a bell. This is kind of surprising, considering the designer is arguably one of the biggest things in Spanish fashion since Cristobal Balenciaga. Sybilla launched her label in 1983, but after fashion began to move at a rate that she felt she couldn’t keep up with, she left the industry in 2005. It’s admirable to say the least; we’ve seen countless examples of designers succumbing to the pressure of commercial demand in relation to their own creative expression. Meanwhile, Sybilla’s been giving back since her departure from fashion, developing agricultural projects and opening a school in Majorca in order to offer solutions to some of today’s more pressing issues.
But now Sybilla’s back, and she’s bringing the highlights of her brand along with her.
Denim is always everywhere, but it’s been especially big lately. A major trend at the spring 2015 menswear shows, and revolutionized by up-and-coming labels like Ximon Lee and Marques’ Almeida (who’s work can currently be seen on FKA twigs’ tour), the fabric has been getting a whole new twist lately, too. But now denim’s getting elevated even more thanks to London-based newcomer Faustine Steinmetz.
Okay, actually, call it a comeback.
Over the course of his 15 year tenure at Dior and through his work at his own eponymous label, John Galliano graced fashion with a huge level of eccentricity, showmanship, and above all, creativity. His designs embodied the enchantment and magic that accompanied high fashion, always going above and beyond with each collection. That was until he was given the boot from both of his design projects in 2011, following the release of a video in which he drunkenly slurred antisemitic remarks at a Parisian café.
After years of treatment for his substance abuse and working closely with the Anti-Defamation League to educate himself on the harmful repercussions of his hateful words, Galliano emerged as a changed man. This brought him a few high-profile fashion projects, such as designing Kate Moss’ wedding dress, collaborating with Oscar de la Renta, and being appointed as the creative director of Russian perfume brand, L’Etoile. However, none of that had truly reached the magnitude of his previous endeavors, as companies were still skeptical to invest in his supposedly volatile behavior.
But now Galliano’s getting a second chance.
In a somewhat surprising turn of events, WWD announced that the designer has been named as the new creative director of Maison Martin Margiela. Though nearly no one saw this coming, the president of OTB, Margiela’s parent company said of the appointment:
Margiela is ready for a new charismatic creative soul … John Galliano is one of the greatest, undisputed talents of all time – a unique, exceptional couturier for a Maison that always challenged and innovated the world of fashion.
Galliano is set to debut his first collection for the house in January during the Haute Couture shows in Paris. Of course, many are wondering what to expect from his new project; while his shows at Dior and his own line were major spectacles, highlighted by extravagant, over-the-top designs, Maison Martin Margiela is known for a “non-standard elegance” aesthetic. In other words, it’s hard to imagine how Galliano will adapt his grandiose concepts to a brand so often focused on anonymity and at times, even minimalism.
But one thing that’s not in question is John Galliano’s true creative mastery. No one can deny that the man is one of the best when it comes to precision, proving himself as one of the most valuable couturiers of our generation. And who knows? Maybe Maison Martin Margiela is due for a bit of a maximalist upgrade.
Let’s be real, things in fashion are somewhat bleak these days. Runway shows are virtually devoid of impressive models, with an immense lack of diversity playing a huge part in this debacle. Meanwhile, brands are growing more commercial, sacrificing creativity for sales. But if Gemma Ward’s comeback this season could usher in a resurgence of the powerful women we saw on the runways in the early 2000s, perhaps John Galliano’s new position at Margiela could provide a revival of the creativity and the artistry in fashion. That is why many of us fell in love with fashion, after all.
Stay tuned for what’s next from John Galliano at Maison Martin Margiela, and check out some of his most noteworthy designs below!
It’s safe to say that London-based designer Mary Katrantzou is kind of killing it this year, with her otherworldly optical prints gaining tons of popularity. Meanwhile, sporty fashion doesn’t seem to be going anywhere, enhanced by countless designers getting in on the omnipresent sneaker trend. The athletic footwear’s prevalence is only further popularized by the many to-die-for collaborations between Adidas and designers like Rick Owens and Raf Simons. So, it only makes sense that the sportswear powerhouse’s next mashup will come courtesy of Mary Katrantzou.
Katrantzou is set to design an entire capsule collection of shoes and clothes for Adidas Originals, presumably featuring her trademark graphics and hues. But despite the bold aesthetics that put her work in the spotlight, Katrantzou’s recently shown fall 2014 ready-to-wear collection presented a subtle move away from over-the-top eccentricity; it’s possible that she could do some more experimentation with toned down styles through her upcoming work for Adidas. Regardless of what route she chooses to go, there’s no doubt that this collaboration will be one of epic proportions.
Mark your calendars, because the Mary Katrantzou capsule collection for Adidas Originals will debut in stores this November. And along with H&M’s upcoming collaboration with Alexander Wang, it’s looking like that’s going to be a pretty good month.
After Jil Sander’s surprising departure from her namesake fashion house last year, it wouldn’t be long before a new talent would take the reigns. Cue Rodolfo Paglialunga, set to make his debut as creative director of the label this September. The Italian designer’s past gigs include working in the ranks of Vionnet after spending some time as the womenswear design director at Prada.
So, what can we expect to see from Paglialunga come the spring 2015 ready-to-wear shows in Milan this fall? His past work (see the gallery below) is certainly impressive, but his ability to continue the ultra-minimalist Jil Sander aesthetic is somewhat questionable. Meanwhile, with little mention of menswear, it’s difficult to predict what will become of that essential aspect of the brand.
Regardless of what Rodolfo Paglialunga’s highly anticipated debut will produce, hopefully we can begin to see some more stability in terms of the revolving door that has overcome this iconic fashion house.
Check out some of Rodolfo Paglialunga’s past work here:
All images via Fashin
Designer L’Wren Scott was found dead in her New York apartment on the morning of March 17, according to multiple sources. Reports say she sent a text message telling her assistant to come over, and upon her arrival, she discovered the designer hanging from a doorknob with a scarf around her neck. There were no signs of forced entry or foul play, while no suicide note was found, either. The news comes roughly a month after the designer cancelled her London Fashion Week show due to production delays, while she was also in the midst of promoting a collection with Bobbi Brown cosmetics following a Banana Republic collaboration late last year. She was 47.
L’Wren Scott had been dating Mick Jagger of the Rolling Stones for over ten years. Currently in Australia, Jagger was prompted him to cancel the band’s upcoming tour. In a heartbreaking personal statement on his website, the singer said:
“I am still struggling to understand how my lover and best friend could end her life in this tragic way. We spent many wonderful years together and had made a great life for ourselves. She had great presence and her talent was much admired, not least by me. I have been touched by the tributes that people have paid to her, and also the personal messages of support that I have received. I will never forget her, Mick”
Born Laura “Luann” Bambrough, L’Wren Scott was discovered by photographer Bruce Weber at a Calvin Klein hosiery shoot, according to Vogue. The statuesque, 6’4″ beauty spent several years modeling before designing film and theater costumes, dabbling in styling and ultimately starting her own namesake women’s ready-to-wear line in 2006.
L’Wren Scott’s designs quickly became essentials in the fashion world. In the modern fashion industry, elegant, classic pieces seem to be increasingly rare. However, Scott’s work evoked undeniably sophisticated, versatile femininity. Dressing countless celebrities and having her work presented on some of the most elite platforms, L’Wren Scott was a truly creative artist. Just look at her spring 2014 ready-to-wear collection, the final work she showed. It’s hard to believe that her Japanese-inspired range would be her last, but the beautifully embellished, couture-like details perfectly summarized her monumental expertise.
Making the story even more chilling, L’Wren Scott’s death occurred on what would have been the 44th birthday of Alexander McQueen; the late designer reportedly ended his life the same way just over four years ago. No one would think that the same beautiful minds that created such inspiring, magical fashion pieces could make such dark decisions. However, one can truly never know what personal issues someone deals with.
The unforgettable work, creativity and spirit of L’Wren Scott will be truly missed by the entirety of the fashion community.
Everyone get excited, because Nicolas Ghesquière’s amazing designs will be gracing the runways once again! After rumors and statements essentially claiming said rumors were true, Louis Vuitton officially confirmed via Twitter that the former Balenciaga designer would be replacing Marc Jacobs as creative director. It’s truly difficult to imagine Ghesquière’s futuristic, unexampled designs translated into the Louis Vuitton woman that Jacobs depicted, but there are few things more appealing than seeing such an incredible talent’s work finally earning the necessary respect. We hope there won’t be many creative constraints for Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton, as his unhappy ending at Balenciaga shouldn’t repeat itself. So now that his new position is finally official, let’s hope for some more of the most inspiring, iconic designs in fashion history from Nicolas Ghesquière, this time at Louis Vuitton.
Feature image via HighSnobiety
After only a year and a half back at her namesake label, Jil Sander is stepping down from her position as creative director for the third time. The news broke last week, stating that she would be leaving for personal reasons. Sander first left her house in 2000, when Prada bought a stake in the company. She then returned for about a year in 2003 before an eight year absence that preceded her 2012 comeback.
The Jil Sander design team is said to take charge of the upcoming fall 2014 collections, while the speculations of the next designers to take the position will probably come soon. Regardless of the reasoning or the outcome, let’s hope for the best for Jil Sander in her personal affairs.
Feature image via Style.com