Archives

feature

BEDTIME STORIES

· Editorial, Fashion · , , , ,

Dreams and nightmares come to life. What is real and what is imaginary, what is human and what is monster? And what are we so afraid of?

Read more

1 option 2

LE PETIT PRINCE

· Editorial, Fashion, Men's · , , , , ,

Fallen to Earth from the great beyond, the little prince marvels at the strangeness of our world.

Read more

Violet wears dress AGENT PROVOCATEUR.

SEXUAL FANTASIES

· Editorial, Fashion · , , , ,

Push the boundaries and explore the depths of your desires; unlock your sexual fantasies and run wild.

Read more

feature-photo-2

AMERICAN GOTHIC

· Editorial · , , , , , , ,

Religiosity in rural America is a powerful staple, where spirituality gets serious.

Read more

feature-photo

SOMEWHERE IN SUBURBIA

· Editorial · , , , , ,

A girl becomes a woman, growing up in the all-American atmosphere.

Read more

feature-photo

BOY NEXT DOOR

· Editorial, Men's · , , , , , ,

Forget your cookie-cutter, whitewashed definition of “the boy next door”; the real kids of America are so much more.

Read more

mood board

Mood Board

· Inspiration · , , , ,

mood board

Sporty chic is on the mind. Stay tuned for where this concept will take us…

Spring 2014 Menswear: London Fashion Week

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

la-ar-mens-fashion-week-london-burberry-prorsu-001

It’s pretty obvious that fashion never stops, so it should come as no surprise that we’re already moving on to the next set of collections. Right on the heels of Resort 2014, the spring 2014 menswear collections are being shown. First up is London, whose week of unique expression and daring designs is rapidly expanding. I’d love to review each collection individually, but in the wise words of Sweet Brown, “ain’t nobody got time for that.” In more appropriate terms, here’s a summary of London Fashion Week for spring 2014 menswear.

Christopher Kane started off the week on a relatively mediocre note with a stark contrast to his wondrous womenswear. As Style.com’s Tim Blanks put it, the clothes seem like an afterthought. Some interesting elements from his ladies’ looks reemerged, but they did so in a much less exciting way, with uninspiring – and possibly uninspired – graphic prints. It didn’t help that the collection mostly consisted of basics. Men’s fashion certainly doesn’t have the popularity of its female counterpart, and Christopher Kane’s latest endeavor did nothing to change that.

Continuing London Fashion Week on a more positive note was Topman Design, whose creative director, Gordon Richardson placed an appealing emphasis on the shirts. I’m not really into anything cowboy-themed, but the urban edge to Topman’s Western-wear definitely saved the collection. Bold colors and metallics were intricately woven onto delicate silk, presenting a juxtaposition of youth and glamor instead of the belabored “cowboys and Indians” concept. Though perfectly styled, the pieces could also work well independently, as they show great potential for versatility. On the same day, Peter Jensen’s womenswear resort 2014 collection debuted alongside his menswear, which showed an obvious inspiration from Andy Warhol. The bright-colored, mod and pop art pieces effectively tied the men’s and women’s designs together through cheeky prints and unisex fabrics. Meanwhile, Astrid Andersen showed some Givenchy-esque garments with an urban, athletic feel, while Lou Dalton’s airforce-inspired gear presented a pleasing color palette. Richard Nicoll’s sober yet sensual collection for spring 2014 was another standout on this impressive day; any collection that starts with beautiful black leather has my heart. From there, more color emerged alongside provocative prints. Overall, Richard Nicoll’s spring 2014 menswear collection was made up of bold yet wearable items, and it’s one of my favorites of the season so far.

As the week progressed, we saw even more noteworthy work from London’s top designers. Sarah Burton always makes a statement at Alexander McQueen, this time with exceptional details highlighting the already top-notch tailoring. White lace and black roses told a story of “rites of passage,” from life to death and everything in between, while the materials appeared frayed and worn by the elements. Burton’s artistic reinterpretation of a dark Edwardian era further proves her capability of continuing Lee McQueen’s iconic legacy. Though not quite as intricate or thought-provoking as Alexander McQueen, Jonathan Saunders’ collection was practical and refreshing. A “techy” shine to upbeat colors added a jolt of liveliness to an otherwise basic collection. Another standout was Rag & Bone. Designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright returned home in London after regularly showing their collections in New York, bringing with them quite a spectacle; several lights and mirrors were coordinated by London’s United Visual Artists, the same group that arranges stage shows for U2. But let’s not forget about the clothes. Rag & Bone spring 2014 menswear was, as always, wearable and effortlessly stylish, though the implementation of Japanese sashiko fabric added a unique twist.

Joanna Sykes’ first menswear collection for Nicole Farhi implied clarity, and the show reflected the idea. Peace, serenity, and tranquility fueled the models’ light steps down the runway, with each turn providing a closer look, thus revealing modern texture. Speaking of modernity, there was no shortage of that at James Long, where sporty jackets and hoodies met loose shorts. We can’t forget about the stripes enhanced with bursts of color, which made many pieces reminiscent of the spectrum on a broken TV screen. Christopher Shannon took us to Mexico, packing a new approach to wild prints and loud colors, while Christopher Raeburn opted for more of a hand painted look to the pieces, as well as optimistic blue and pink counterparts.

Nothing says London more than Burberry Prorsum. Christopher Bailey made the decision to move his men’s presentation to London this season, further signifying the emphasis on British heritage that the brand is known for. Some of Burberry’s own heritage prevailed, as Bailey found yet another way to reinvent the iconic trench and other statement outerwear pieces. The theme of the collection was “Writers and Painters,” which was evident through the various colors and patterns often shown together on a single look. But there was nothing bad about these somewhat mix-matched ensembles; everything went together so perfectly to tell a story or paint a picture, just like the theme implied. Almost appearing as a mélange of fauvism, impressionism, and visual poetry, Christopher Bailey’s spring 2014 menswear collection for Burberry Prorsum delineated a wonderful work of art…of course with a charming British attitude.

Overall, London’s expansion of its menswear Fashion Week seems to be moving in the right direction, as the city is certainly teeming with talent. There’s never any shortage of creativity in the English capital, and spring 2014 is looking extremely promising for men. Looking forward to Milan and Paris in the next couple of weeks, there’s a lot to live up to; it looks like London set the bar pretty high.

Stay tuned for the rest of this season’s shows, and check out some of the most noteworthy looks from the latest London Fashion Week menswear presentations!

Feature image via LA Times

All other images via Style.com ; go to Style.com for full coverage of the spring 2014 menswear collections

Don’t Blog Me Down

· Features · , , , , , , , , , , , , , , ,

blog copy

Let’s get a little personal for a second. I was well aware that when I started des phosphènes, it was likely that it would be categorized as another fashion blog without much setting it apart from the infinite others.  Yes, this just came to fruition a few months ago, but one of my main intentions is to transcend this site above the bottomless pit of mundane style blogs. It’s crucial to note the impact of the word “blog” itself.

Social media plays a prevalent role in our world, especially in the fashion industry. These days, a fashion “blog” could be considered any outlet for photographers, journalists, stylists, or other people in fashion to express their expertise. However, “blogger” is a polarizing term; despite reputable industry insiders’ credentials, the term is still polluted by the sea of style bloggers, as many people shun the idea of well-dressed preteens’ selfies. Don’t get me wrong, there are plenty of impressive style blogs, and none of these people would’ve been invited to sit front row at top fashion shows if they weren’t tasteful and talented. But these one trick ponies are quickly becoming endangered. Instead, the world seems to be turning its interest towards more multifaceted fashion websites, where social media skills are elevated to a supreme level of quality fashion reporting. Though they could still be considered “blogs,” websites like Into the Gloss and The Business of Fashion present more than just its reporters sharing how great they looked before going to lunch. Other inspiring Internet institutions are including essays, fashion news coverage, and independently created editorial spreads, presenting something more similar to a magazine than the traditional style blog. Meanwhile, several successful style bloggers such as Leandra Medine (AKA the Man Repeller) and Bryanboy have used their pages as platforms to launch more successful, long-lasting careers in fashion. Generally, it seems that the limited structure of a personal style blog, though undeniably amusing and almost always inspiring, is no longer appealing.

As a person who is extremely dedicated to pursuing a future in the fashion industry, it’s important for me to find a way to express my skills and knowledge through des phosphènes without getting sucked into the vortex of a one-note blog. The Internet is unlimited, and anyone can easily thrust themselves into the world of fashion. However, there’s more to it than just good taste and writing skills; unique, creative work is what seems to truly pay off.

Share your thoughts!

The Body-Shame Game

· Features, Models, News · , , , , , , , , , , , ,

julia nobis t 0

Haven’t people learned the difference between stating an opinion and making crude, offensive remarks?

While I’d usually like to maintain at least a shred of objectivity, I can’t help but respond to this type of aggravated ignorance with a little bit of a negative attitude.

The New York Times’ fashion magazine, T recently featured Julia Nobis on their cover and in an accompanying editorial, shot by Craig McDean. The spread isn’t bad, but it’s not necessarily one of the most provocative pictorials I’ve ever seen. However, Cenk Uygur apparently finds the simplistic studio images of Nobis so disturbing that he felt the need to fervently respond with scathing commentary. Although The Young Turks host claims he wasn’t trying to attack Julia personally, he repeatedly called the model “disgusting” and assumed she’s “obviously anorexic” in the midst of a body-shaming, implicitly misogynistic rant.

“As a red-blooded American man, I’m here to tell you it’s not attractive, it’s disgusting,” Uygur says in regards to the thin-ideal image portrayed by the fashion industry.

Let’s be real, high fashion doesn’t typically appeal to the “red-blooded American man,” and the confusion that comes with being completely uninformed seems to cause this particular man to be nothing less than infuriated. Sorry, but the purpose of fashion isn’t to sexually arouse. If that’s what you want, look at porn instead of trying to objectify women in the fashion business.

Cenk Uygur is clearly not involved in fashion, as he angrily mocks and criticizes the industry in both the first segment and the following (which replies to the negative backlash of his initial statements). So why does he find it acceptable to lecture on a topic he knows nothing about? His reports are embellished with misconstrued information about fashion week and the modeling industry, nullifying his status as a credible source. I’ve seen people make asinine assumptions on things they didn’t know about, but Cenk takes the cake (obviously). Extremely unqualified, Mr. Uygur definitely has balls to take on an industry noted for its no-bullshit frame of mind, especially in his attempt to preach what types of bodies are “desirable.” I’m not quite getting how he justifies his mean-spirited comments on thin models and the fashion industry; he doesn’t exactly have a model’s physique, so I’m sure he knows it’s equally impolite to call someone fat.

But this isn’t just about retaliating and insulting Cenk Uygur for implying that people in the fashion industry are stupid and psychotic (though I was definitely heated about those comments). The real issue here is how people think it’s perfectly okay to put someone to shame for their body type, whether they are fat or skinny.

To be blunt, the fashion industry’s intention is not to make people feel good about themselves, but to sell products. Of course there are plenty of models who are dangerously more underweight than Julia Nobis, going to unhealthy extremes to achieve their figures; we’ve known about this for what feels like eternity, and the super-skinny standard has definitely impacted plenty of people’s body image. But the ideal body type in fashion should be adapted for models’ safety, not to appeal to someone’s closed-minded vision of beauty. I definitely think it would be best for the fashion industry to be more accepting of a variety of shapes and sizes, just like I think there needs to be more inclusion with race. But I also don’t think anyone should shame another for their weight, especially when they’re severely uninformed about who or what they choose to critique.

It’s difficult to completely assess the issue, and this could go into an even larger discussion. Though slightly off-topic, the fashion industry is like a sibling to me; I’ll be the first insult it and point out its flaws, but I’ll also be the first to rush to its defense. Let Cenk Uygur serve as an example of how truly foolish someone looks when making ignorant verbal assaults, and let’s hope people both in fashion and in the mainstream will eventually stop shaming others’ bodies.

Take a look at some more photos from Julia Nobis’ spread in and share your thoughts on the topic!

julia nobis t
julia nobis t 5
julia nobis t 2julia nobis t 4

Images via DNA Model Management