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AMERICAN GOTHIC

· Editorial · , , , , , , ,

Religiosity in rural America is a powerful staple, where spirituality gets serious.

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Vacation Wear

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Summer might be winding down, but there are definitely still a few weeks left to savor. And what better way to enjoy the remainder of summer than with a vacation? Maybe you’ve already got something planned, or maybe you’re more of the last-minute type. Regardless, refer to our top vacation destinations, book your flight, and most importantly, pack your bags. And if you’re struggling to figure out what exactly to pack, have no fear; here are just a few style suggestions for both men and women, a cohesive guide to help you curate the perfect wardrobe during your time off. Whether you’re heading to Baja, Greece, the Amalfi Coast, the Caribbean, Southeast Asia, or elsewhere, we’ve got you covered. Enjoy!

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dress BURBERRY PRORSUM.

The Garden

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AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

The Top 10 Collections of the Spring 2015 Menswear Season

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , , , , , ,
AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

Just like any menswear season, there have been tons of collections between London, Milan, and Paris. And while every single label has presented exceptional work from their tremendously talented teams, there were a few that really blew our minds. Sure, this post might come with a little bit of bias. But once you read about these stunning endeavors, you’re sure to see where we’re coming from. Here are the top 10 collections from the spring 2015 menswear shows (in no particular order) as ranked by Des Phosphènes’ creator & EIC, Scott Shapiro.

 

 

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

To many, Walter Van Beirendonck‘s collections are far from wearable. True, mix-matched prints with lots of powerful subliminal messages might not be everyone’s go-to office attire. But what’s really impressive is the message that accompanies the show. For spring 2015, WVB explored the invasion of privacy as a force worth fighting against, battling it with, for lack of a better word, the best clusterfuck imaginable. It’s wonderfully refreshing to see such creativity from a designer given the circumstances of today’s commercialized fashion industry; Walter Van Beirendonck’s uncompromising vision is far more appealing than any traditional tux.

NEIL BARRETT

Simplicity goes a long way, always making room for the details to shine through. Case in point: Neil Barrett’s spring 2015 menswear collection. The sporty range started off with loads of all-white ensembles, eventually featuring dark blues and violets, camel and camo, all in a whole lot of fantastic fabrics. The bonded fabrics came with bountiful structure; leather, suede, and gabardine gave silhouettes a voluminous yet sleek shape. And don’t even get us started on that to-die-for yellow neoprene jacket. Neil Barrett’s mastery of details in the creation of sharp, relatively minimal designs is what often makes menswear so exciting.

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

If you want to talk about minimalism, look no further than Christophe Lemaire’s spring 2015 menswear endeavor. When reviewing our spring 2015 menswear trend report, you probably noticed a lot from the designer. And it makes sense; the collection showed versatility at its finest, featuring everything from clean white looks to luxury denim to Japanese-inspired styles and more. Of course, every ensemble was a true fashion creation, but the limitless possibilities of how to interpret the pieces allows for plenty of benefits for the Parisian label. We’re sure this collection will face loads of retail and editorial success.

LOU DALTON

Starting off London Fashion Week and the entire spring 2015 menswear show circuit, Lou Dalton nixed the narrative and stuck to the fundamentals of fashion. However, her collection was far from elementary. The tailoring was sharp, a considerably different silhouette from this season’s looser suiting, and these outfits looked phenomenal when paired with simple yet sporty sneakers. Baseball shirts and no-fuss bomber jackets were some of the real stars of the show, while bursts of light blue, pale pink, and vivacious coral truly livened up the looks.

BALENCIAGA

Without the huge production of a runway show, it’s easy to forget that a collection was even presented. But that’s definitely not the case when it comes to Balenciaga, as the historic Parisian fashion house’s men’s department was taken to more modern, urban territory. Alexander Wang’s New York vibes couldn’t be left behind when he took the helm as creative director of Balenciaga, but the designer still knows how to separate his two projects. With new shapes and styles, his latest was full of innovation, from Cocoon-inspired Mackintosh coats to the sleekest of suits. With concealed plackets abound, there were few buttons or closures to be seen. Yet the best part had to be the pairing of these exceptionally elegant ensembles with laid-back trainers. Good ol’ Alex Wang.

RAF SIMONS

Raf Simons is another designer whose amazing collection was highlighted by complexity and immense creativity. His nostalgic references to his past and to several of the elements that have shaped his present were shown through collages of photos with psychological implications, all of which took place on structured yet shapely silhouettes. The show itself was one of the most fascinating of the season; ominous red lights that harkened back to 1970s horror films dominated the display. Meanwhile, vibrant light-up sneakers and inventive printed tops are poised to be some of the hottest pieces of spring 2015.

GIVENCHY

Like many other designers this season, Riccardo Tisci went back to his roots for his spring 2015 Givenchy menswear collection. The end result was far more simplified than his recent collections, featuring a predominantly monochrome version of his urban, streetwear-influenced aesthetic. From the floral camouflage prints to even the skullcaps that the models wore, his latest looks felt fresh and inspiring. And the womenswear ensembles provided an exciting preview of his next ready-to-wear work, looking exceptional on the likes of Adriana Lima and Candice Swanepoel.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

Italo Zucchelli never disappoints at Calvin Klein Collection. This season, the designer’s Milan show featured his signature minimalism in a predominant shade of nude, while pops of bright yellow and orange brought the ensembles to life. Sporty outerwear and vibrant eyewear appeared natural, making way for a wearable, simple yet bold range of menswear looks. The collection proved that aesthetic extras aren’t always necessary, and the straightforward designs were perfect for today’s modern man.

ISSEY MIYAKE

At Issey Miyake, Yusuke Takahashi evoked something different from the predictable, explicitly Japanese-influenced styles. Instead, he drew inspiration from exotic resorts and the landscape of Palau, which resulted in an exciting mélange of innovative design techniques. On a journey from the jungle to the beach into the deep sea, Takahashi explored the construction of fabrics via an unexpected use of pineapple and banana in creating jackets, ultra-flattering pleating to make beautiful gradient prints, and the digital reproduction of colorful images onto his beautiful garments. And just when things couldn’t seem any better, the show was bolstered by upbeat music and smiling models. Talk about good vibes.

LANVIN

The white neoprene outerwear pieces were enough to make us fall in love with the spring 2015 Lanvin menswear collection. But Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver wouldn’t leave it at just that, including super desirable sneakers with their luxury looks. Silky fabrics and loosened shapes were other positives, and leather accessories appeared to be of the highest quality imaginable. Decadent elegance mixed with today’s active, on-the-go energy to create one of the best – and most appropriate – collections of the season.

All photos via Style.com

Issey Miyake Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

What do you get when you combine exotic resorts with the lush landscape of Palau as sources of inspiration? For Yusuke Takahashi, the end result was his spring 2015 collection for Issey Miyake menswear, titled “Tropical Dandies.”

With pushed back hair and megawatt smiles, models happily pranced down the long white runway, evoking the scene of a boardwalk reaching towards the Pacific Ocean. It was exactly the image Takahashi intended to project, providing the perfect pick-me-up on an already bright and sunny Parisian morning. Pumping music, vibrant colors, and powerful struts took us back to some of the most fun days of fashion in the 1990s. Good vibes were aplenty, but the clothes themselves were far more conceptual than meets the eye; would you expect anything less from the always innovative Issey Miyake brand?

Yusuke Takahashi’s collection took us on a journey from a verdant jungle to white sand beaches, extending all the way into the deep sea. The first segment was presented through unique materials. Woven from wild banana, abaca was combined with pineapple via linen and nylon to create sharp tweed jackets. Though the show notes described the silhouette as urban, the materials yielded a light feeling that was perfect for the resort that Takahashi dreamed of.

Things got a little more urban as we made our way to the beach thanks to a spectrum of sneakers that contributed to a sportier, dynamic style. There were garments in shades of ivory like the purest of sand alongside items printed with multicolored jellyfish motifs, while iridescent pieces resembled light on water. The reflections of the sea didn’t stop there, either. In a series of suits, shirts, ponchos, and scarves, four different shades of blue were pleated in classic Issey Miyake fashion to create pale gradient stripes.

Moving further into the deep, the “Abyss” series closed off Yusuke Takahashi’s spring 2015 show. And the depth didn’t just apply to the physical quality of the ocean; these pieces came with a profound message, done in collaboration with BLOOM Association, an NGO dedicated to marine conservation. An homage to the beauty of deep sea fauna and an urgent reminder of our responsibility to protect it, images of aquatic creatures were digitally reproduced onto garments with enhanced colors and vibrant patterns.

Not that we would expect anything but impressive work from Mr. Takahashi, it seems like each season opens a new dimension to his multifaceted design aesthetic. The message of consciousness for our environment prominently stood out, bolstered by a fun, vibrant, uplifting, and energetic collection. What more could you want from a fashion show?

See a few shots from the Issey Miyake spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

The latest from Issey Miyake

Menswear is Coming

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , , , ,
The latest from Issey Miyake

The latest from Issey Miyake menswear

Well that was fast, wasn’t it? It feels like literally days ago since the fall 2014 menswear shows wrapped, not to mention all of the couture, ready-to-wear, and resort shows that immediately followed. But as fashion goes, the next season approaches in the blink of an eye.

The spring/summer 2015 menswear shows are set to kick off with the fifth consecutive season of London Collections: Men. Always an exciting time, everyone’s anticipating more impressive feats from the likes of Burberry, J.W. Anderson, and Alexander McQueen. This season will also be the first time that Italian label Moschino will show in the British fashion capital, while it also marks creative director Jeremy Scott’s first menswear collection for the fashion house. Milan is always full of great work, too, and many people are looking forward to more great work from Stefano Pilati at Ermenegildo Zegna, along with continuously fantastic designs from Gucci, Salvatore Ferragamo, and many, many more.

And who could forget Paris? The magical city is teeming with equally inspiring men’s fashion. We’re heavily anticipating Yusuke Takahashi’s follow-up to his first two stunning seasons at Issey Miyake (pictured above), while it’s difficult to wait for whatever bold statement Walter Van Beirendonck will make this time around. Classic Parisian fashion houses never fail to impress, either; could anything get better than what we’ve seen last season at Lanvin or Givenchy?

In case you need to review the last round of menswear presentations, there’s plenty to see on Des Phosphènes. And after that, be sure to stay tuned for our coverage of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows!

 

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro via Instagram

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Issey Miyake Fall 2014 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

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“No, no, it’s not a rave,” Yusuke Takahashi said. “It’s a rainbow.”

Yusuke Takahashi proved his strength as creative director at Issey Miyake Men with just his first collection for spring 2014. So how did the young designer follow up his impressive debut?

He started by adapting the brand’s laid-back aesthetic, taking notes from traditional British craftsmanship to produce sharper, more masculine suiting. One could argue that the result was an extra does of elegance and sophistication for the Issey Miyake man, shown through sleek silhouettes. But Takahashi’s vibrant creativity was still prominent, as the dynamic nature he witnessed in his travels to Iceland inspired the “man versus nature” story told by his fall 2014 menswear collection.

There was a rugged quality to some of the pieces, such as crinkled coats and ponchos, reflecting the glacial geography that could be found in the Scandinavian country. Some suits even appeared to have a bit of metallic ice stuck on the jackets and pants, while other ensembles subtly carried cool white and blue hues. Tech fabrics made an appearance at Issey Miyake, too, and when worn with caps and backpacks, Takahashi’s Arctic snow gear could easily make its way to the city. The multicolors woven into the first few looks signified something celestial, which was further delineated by metallic neons that could’ve come straight from the Northern Lights. Bright oranges were reminiscent of volcanic lava, another Icelandic element we can’t forget.

It would be difficult to think of Iceland when watching the show without any prior references. Yet the kaleidoscopic culmination of the captivating presentation was enough to put any naysayers on Yusuke Takahashi’s side. A conversation between the elements, outer space, and man and modernity, the Issey Miyake fall 2014 menswear collection was certainly a helpful jolt of energy for men’s fashion.

 

See the full Issey Miyake fall 2014 menswear collection here!

Photo via Instagram

Paris Fashion Miyake

Issey Miyake Spring 2014 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

 

Yusuke Takahashi has just been appointed as Issey Miyake’s menswear designer by Miyake himself, but the young man isn’t exactly a newcomer at the iconic Japanese label. Takahashi has been working with Miyake’s design team for about three years, making him an optimal candidate for the position. Of course, taking on such a huge role could make even the most confident designer nervous, so it wouldn’t be surprising if Takahashi chose to play it safe for his spring 2014 menswear collection.

What was more surprising is that Takahashi didn’t make a safe collection. True, there was little innovation with fabric choices, as the 27-year-old designer stuck to simple and seasonably appropriate cottons and linens. But that doesn’t mean there wasn’t creativity in other aspects. He took his skills and knowledge of Issey Miyake’s brand and sculpted them into an up-to-date reinterpretation, completely respectful and appreciative of Miyake’s aesthetic. Items had a stained look, many as if they had been bleached or tie-dyed, while there was no shortage of cracked texture. Everything was placed upon sharply tailored silhouettes, tying all of the concepts together. Based on just this collection, it would be safe to assume that Yusuke Takahashi has a bright future ahead at Issey Miyake menswear.

Feature image via Ottawa Citizen

All other images via Style.com