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Photo Courtesy Vogue

Spring/Summer 2016

· Runway · , , , , , , ,

Yet another Fashion Month has flown by, leaving us with a lot to think about. Sure, there were tons of shows between New York, London, Milan, and Paris. But only a few truly stood out, and even less were exceptionally spellbinding; in some respects, this season feels a bit more commercial and sales-driven than ever before. However, there is always the necessary creativity and artistry that sparks our passion and keeps our interest in fashion alive. So, let’s break it down by city, highlighting the most impressive, noteworthy, and interesting moments of the spring 2016 runway season.

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Hood by Air Collection Spring Summer 2016 Menswear in Paris

The Boys of Summer

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,

 

The fall 2015 couture shows are trekking along in Paris, but the past few weeks were all about menswear. In London, Milan, and Paris, we got a taste of what’s to come for spring and summer 2016, and designers were giving yet another new twist to typical men’s fashion.

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Photo Courtesy Senatus

The Fall 2015 Menswear Review

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

Fashion never slows down, especially not right now. As soon as the calendar changed to 2015, a frenzy of shows and presentations kicked off, from pre-fall to haute couture to ready-to-wear and more. But let’s not forget about menswear; the fall 2015 shows just wrapped up, and there’s a lot to talk about.

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Denim Couture

· The Come-Up · , , ,

Denim is always everywhere, but it’s been especially big lately. A major trend at the spring 2015 menswear shows, and revolutionized by up-and-coming labels like Ximon Lee and Marques’ Almeida (who’s work can currently be seen on FKA twigs’ tour), the fabric has been getting a whole new twist lately, too. But now denim’s getting elevated even more thanks to London-based newcomer Faustine Steinmetz.

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The New Musical Fashion Duo

· Music, Style · , , ,

Madonna did it with Jean Paul Gaultier, Kanye collaborated with Margiela, and Rihanna got it in with everyone from Givenchy’s Riccardo Tisci, Jeremy Scott, and Adam Selman. Let’s face it, a musician/fashion brand relationship is crucial for building an image.

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Oppermann-Core-Palissy-1

Oppermann

· Men's, The Come-Up · , , ,

Sometimes it’s a lot harder than you’d think to find the perfect accessories, especially when it comes to menswear. Over-the-top styles make for great statement pieces, but what happened to a traditionally good bag?

Cue Oppermann, the London-based label that fuses luxury and practicality to create undeniably beautiful leather goods. Launched in 2012 by two Swedish brothers, Niklas and Mattis Oppermann, the brand shows the perfect combination of sleek Scandinavian minimalism and cutting-edge London style. And just when it seemed as if the perfect shapes, high-quality materials, and couture-like craftsmanship couldn’t get any better, Oppermann is also using a refreshing new retail model.

Launching this fall, set to make waves through 2015 and beyond, Oppermann will be one of Europe’s first online-only menswear labels. Retailers often mark up the cost of items by at least three times, and by distributing directly from the source, Oppermann offers their pristine products at astonishing prices. But don’t think a reasonable expense means lower quality; the brand is still all about getting better and better with each piece.

As with typical minimalism, the details are what truly make Oppermann’s items stand out. From bags to wallets to leather sleeves and document cases, everything is handmade in Italy, while all materials come from some of the finest European manufacturers. Take the brand’s latest collection, “Surfaces.” Featuring tumbled leather from Tärnsjö Garveri in Sweden, Italian vegetable-tanned leather trims, and zippers from Raccagni, Italy, the items are handcrafted in Naples, Italy to produce duality and versatility. In a nutshell, Oppermann is proving that the pricetag doesn’t have to match the elevated quality, putting the brand in line to be one of the hottest men’s luxury accessories labels.

Get in on the label’s Kickstarter campaign here, and check out some of the awesome items below!:

Oppermann-Core-Goswell Oppermann-Core-Islington Oppermann-Core-Palissy-1 oppermann-palissy-black-2 Oppermann-Surfaces-Collection

All photos courtesy Oppermann London

trends

The Spring 2015 Menswear Trend Report

· Men's, Runway, Trend Reports · , , , , , , ,

trends

Another season of menswear has come and gone, bringing both old and new styles from the world’s top designers. A sharp suit never loses its touch, while sleek minimalism has been reinvented in a variety of ways. And other classics were given unique spins, like the subtle pinstripes seen at Dries Van Noten or Prada’s take on luxury denim. Seasonably appropriate bright colors made an obligatory appearance, too. However, the absence of color is always in, shown by all-white looks at Neil Barrett and Christophe Lemaire. It goes without saying that the sportswear trend has become completely ubiquitous; sneakers and tech fabrics were virtually everywhere, even at the typically refined Ermenegildo Zegna. And who could forget the surfer dudes and beach boys that popped up everywhere from Saint Laurent to Miharayasuhiro? Whether fueled by nostalgia or pure joy, designers proved their immense creativity and inventiveness. Here’s a look at some of the top trends of the spring 2015 menswear season.

 

WORK IT OUT

Maybe it’s the “normcore” movement, or maybe people just want to be a bit more practical. But whatever the reason, sporty fashion isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. More designers than we can count traded in dress shoes for sneakers with their formalwear, with fresh kicks popping up everywhere from Calvin Klein to Lanvin. And lots of sports were getting attention, too; baseball tees were just as common as hoodies and track pants. Meanwhile, athleticism met aestheticism for ballet-inspired garb at Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens, the latter moving his regularly sporty pieces into new territory. While going to the gym could still be a pain in the ass, at least you’ll look stylish as hell during your next workout.

 

 

SURFBOARDT

Yes, we know, surfing is a sport, too. But despite the amount of neoprene this season, most designers weren’t exactly sending wetsuits down the runway. Instead, it was more about the surfer attitude, personified via tie dye at Miharayasuhiro and Kolor and palm tree motifs from the likes of Canali and MSGM. If the beaded necklaces and bracelets à la Kris Van Assche didn’t get the point across enough, then maybe the playful mix-matched prints at Paul Smith would do a better job at embodying the carefree beach boy vibes. And the best part? No surf skills are required to rock these styles.

 

 

GOOD JEANS

Denim is one of those things that’s so omnipresent that it would seem weird for it to be considered a trend. But for spring 2015 menswear, designers have been taking your favorite jeans and putting them in a completely different frame. Just check out Phillip Lim’s denim jumpsuit, or the all-denim suit seen at Dior Homme. And it’s impossible to ignore the crazy prints on the fabric at Sibling or the atypical variations at Junya Watanabe. Even Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens incorporated some denim into their unique aesthetics. On one hand, everybody’s got some jeans they can use to fit into this trend. But let’s just say you’re going to have to step it up to meet these designer denim standards.

 

 

JUMP ON IT

Speaking of that denim number at Phillip Lim, jumpsuits have become quite a thing this season. Well, maybe not every designer has gotten into the idea of a men’s one-piece, but Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo were sure feeling it. Give it some time, and we have a feeling plenty more labels are going to jump on this trend.

 

 

STYLE SOLDIERS

Like many other trends, military-inspired looks have been presented in fresh new ways this season. Christopher Bailey always reinvents and masters the army aesthetic at Burberry, and that was no different this time around. Meanwhile, outerwear with utilitarian pockets and epaulets were ever present at Louis Vuitton, and Christophe Lemaire added a similar slant to his monochrome collection. And what would military fashion be without some camouflage? If you want the classic print, then Valentino had plenty of looks for that. But the floral camo shown at Givenchy and the modernized, graphic versions at Sacai were just as noteworthy.

 

 

SPRING/SUMMER OF ’69

From the late 1960s through the 1970s, this era of bohemian style meshed perfectly with classically tailored leisure suits. Antonio Marras veered towards the latter, while Topman Design paid homage to Woodstock. And while Katie Eary’s collection felt relatively Western, there was a noticeable throwback element, too. Whether you’re feeling the sophisticated side from Tom Ford or a bit more like Saint Laurent’s spin on Jimi Hendrix, now would definitely be the time to hit up your favorite vintage shop.

 

 

EARN YOUR STRIPES

Another classic turned on its head, the pinstripe has gotten completely rejuvenated for spring 2015. Sure, the suiting at Trussardi could’ve come straight out of the 1940s. But the 3D stripes at Margiela and the always-eccentric variations at J.W. Anderson felt totally fresh. And let’s not leave out labels like E. Tautz and Matthew Miller, who essentially kicked off this trend during London Collections: Men. Who said this pattern had to be boring?

 

 

WHITE OUT

It was no surprise when we saw all-white ensembles at minimalist labels like Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. But we’d almost forgotten how essential this look is for summertime, proven by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Lou Dalton, and many, many more. All black will always be a thing, and plenty of other colors are having a moment this season, too. But sometimes white is right, and that’s that.

 

 

HERE COMES THE SUN

One of those other colors currently having a moment is yellow. Whether mellow or vibrant, there’s been a whole lot of jaune this season. Acne showed us that there’s nothing to be afraid of when it comes to wearing a big bright yellow jacket, while Berluti sent out a whole range of styles in the sunny shade. And we have to talk about the yellow neoprene jacket from Neil Barrett. Alongside things like the little pops at Calvin Klein, designers made it clear that this is going to be a pretty bright season, and there’s nothing to be afraid of.

 

 

REAL MEN WEAR PINK

Another color that used to formerly terrify men everywhere, pink has been shown as more masculine than ever thanks to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and other A-list labels. Marc Jacobs’ playful flamingo prints showed a fun way to incorporate this hue into your spectrum; pieces at Thom Browne and Comme des Garçons put the creators’ signature eccentricity in the bold shade. And with Rick Owens even featuring a rose ensemble, it’s obvious that it’s time to think pink.

 

 

EASTWARD BOUND

Eastern cultures have always been a huge inspiration for designers across the globe, and that was just as evident this season as ever. Raf Simons‘ nostalgic collection featured a series of Japanese-inspired prints, a thank you note to some of his earliest supporters. At Agi & Sam, the London-based design duo took things almost literally with kimono-esque tops and sandals worn with socks. And they weren’t alone; Craig Green, Phillip Lim, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake, and plenty of others got in on the action, experimenting with everything from traditional Japanese garb to streetwear to minimalism and more. While we’d love to see what’s really going on over in Tokyo, this current Eastern obsession is definitely looking good.

 

 

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S ROBES

Not quite kimonos, long silk robes are making an unexpected appearance in the men’s fashion sphere. Dries Van Noten was on top of this trend, sending a whole series of similar styles down the runway at his romantic Paris show. Haider Ackermann loves a good robe, too, so it’s no surprise that we saw one or two in his collection. A couple pieces at Umit Benan had us headed straight for the shower, while Hedi Slimane gave his signature rock ‘n’ roll, bohemian touch to a variation at Saint Laurent. Like jumpsuits, it might take a minute or two for this fad to catch on. But if anything, it’s definitely refreshing to see designers’ new takes on traditional men’s fashion.

All photos courtesy Style.com

Photo Courtesy Nowfashion

LCM, That’s a Wrap!

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,
Photo Courtesy Nowfashion

Photo Courtesy NowFashion

After noteworthy presentations from day one and two of London Collections: Men, the third and final day served as the perfect close to the first round of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows.

E. Tautz started off the day with lots of stripes, whether vertical or horizontal, skinny or wide. Designer Patrick Grant’s range predominantly came in the limited – but not limiting – palette of navy, white, blue, and beige, shown on oversized, loosely tailored silhouettes. It was the denim pieces that truly stole the show, like the classic jean jacket paired with prim pinstripes, or the wide-leg shorts worn with a blue and white distorted floral print t-shirt and sandal/sneaker hybrid shoes. Said shoes are essentially perfect, combining everyone’s sporty obsession with seasonably appropriate ventilation (though this isn’t the first time things like this have appeared). And they went exceptionally well with a dark wash denim parka and loose navy shorts with wide vertical white stripes.

How could London Collections: Men come to a close without a little more over-the-top fashion? That’s where Cozette McCreery, Joe Bates, and Sid Bryan came in with their spring/summer 2015 menswear collection for Sibling. Printed denim, neon orange, and loads of hairlike fringe showed up in the first few looks, while lace tops and skirts, cartoonish skull print tees, and Flintstone bone necklaces subsequently followed. The show closed with the most absurd bright red pom-pom ensembles imaginable, which appeared to be made out of shredded knit. The outfits engulfed the models’ faces as they presumably struggled to navigate the runway…casual.

Let’s hope the runways were clean, as Craig Green sent models down completely barefoot. Loose trousers with drawstrings gone wild, crazy cutouts on comparatively tight tops, and massive attachments on the backs of a series of models helped illustrate Green’s complex vision that evoked an extra dose of Eastern inspiration. Faux-Japanese elements were meshed with the Wild West over at Katie Eary, where lanterns and cacti coincided on sunset-hued printed silk shirts. There was an undeniable sense of 1960s or 70s hippie style, too, translated through solarized aviators, knitted polos, and psychedelic separates in blaring brights. Not quite as bright, Nasir Mazhar‘s collection was certainly bold. The sportiest styles outside of the gym, whites on whites and jewel toned prints appeared on luxe fabrics, and there was a whole lot of skin.

We saw some identical looks to those at DKNY at Joseph, particularly a jersey-style top under a blue suit, but the rest of the collection stood perfectly on its own. Supple leather bottoms looked spectacular with stylish sandals and striped tops, while floral print pants were toned down by their navy and black counterparts. And let’s not forget about the loud pops of orange; the unexpected color made a pleasant surprise in the form of bomber jackets and trousers.

We can’t deny that London would be nothing without Burberry Prorsum. The essentially British label is always the highlight of every London Fashion Week, and this time, Christopher Bailey took his ultimately English vision to some type of fantasy land. The Kensington Gardens tent was teeming with sunlight as the models hid beneath floppy bucket hats. Bailey was inspired by the travel writer Bruce Chatwin, garnering a vibrant, multicolored scope for spring 2015 menswear. There was suede and soft leather, with pieces in virtually every color of the rainbow and tailoring in both sleek and loose silhouettes. It seems like Christopher Bailey is catching up with just about every other designer, too, putting a range of sneakers on the runway this season, many in hues just as vibrant as the outfits they were paired with. And although the thought of layering might make us cringe in our current summer climate, those denim jackets couldn’t have looked any better than they did while tucked under voluminous trench coats. Just when you thought Christopher Bailey couldn’t possibly find another dimension to his Burberry aesthetic, he somehow outdoes himself.

So that’s a wrap! London Collections: Men has produced some amazing things from new talents and old favorites, proving a promising future for the fashion capital’s menswear scene. Now it’s off to Milan! After a few days of downtime, the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows will continue in Italy’s undisputed fashion capital on June 21, and there’s tons of exciting things to anticipate. Stay tuned!

Check out some of the most noteworthy looks from the third and final day of LCM below, and be sure to click through the above links for full collections. And stay tuned for more coverage of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows!

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More From LCM

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,

moschino-springsummer-2015-collection-00-300x180

In just one day of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows, we’ve seen everything from sleek minimalism to military-inspired garb to even a few men’s crop tops. And as London Collections: Men continued, there was plenty more to be seen.

J.W. Anderson stuck to his typically atypical aesthetic, featuring peacefully printed sleeveless knit tops and stripes in every direction. No stranger to blurring the lines of traditional gender dressing, Mr. Anderson also threw in some off the shoulder shirts, complete with side-tied details for good measure. Cropped, low-neck sweaters were balanced out with comparatively conservative polos, while a series of jersey-like shirts came in surprisingly simple yet lavishly lush colors.

Keeping things out of the ordinary, KTZ showed an Olympian man for the modern age. Urban sportswear with gladiator-esque sandals and Greco-Roman accessories and prints – predominantly in black and white – were made relevant via mesh and tech fabrics. Meanwhile, Margaret Howell stuck to her go-to anti-fashion framework; the designer always mentions that her clothes are intended to be simply wearable, not all about fashion. Regardless, classic staples like cuffed chinos and simple suits were brought to life on boxy, masculine silhouettes, while details such as tinted shades and boy scout ascots added a necessary extra dose of character.

Richard James played with the quickly emerging military trend by adding pops of pinks and blues to the otherwise stoic ensembles. Christopher Kane showed arguably the best collection of the day, featuring wild stripes like those at J.W. Anderson along sides electric, neon yellows. And there was no shortage of sharply tailored suits or multicolored printed tees, many of which featured sheer sleeves. Though Kane is often noted for going very far out of the box with his womenswear, his menswear has often been considered a much safer endeavor. Sure, his latest line would seem traditional when put next to the dresses reminiscent of garbage bags from his fall 2014 womenswear collection, but it’s exciting to see more of the vibrant experimentation that the designer is known and loved for being spread evenly amongst both sexes.

Alexander McQueen is always one of the most anticipated shows during London’s menswear presentations, and Sarah Burton definitely didn’t fail to deliver this season. Yes, there were some red prints atop black garments, though when mixed with a fresh dose of white, the overall looks seemed far less harsh than the gothic image of last season. In fact, all-white outfits with touches of bright blues and yellow-greens were far from what we’d expect from the usually dark designer. Talk about refreshing for spring.

Over at James Long, the sporty and psychedelic themes from yesterday’s shows were somehow cohesively meshed together, telling the story of a Thai boxer who gave up the aggressive activity to become a hippie. Certainly a creative concept, Long translated this into deconstructed boxing ribbons reassembled and scattered upon denim jackets, while laid back sportiness was embodied on the Baja-inspired hoodies that made an appearance. And at Pringle of Scotland, polos were updated in tech fabric, while shades of blues – from navy to cobalt – made for perfect pairs with pops of green. And we can’t forget the few vibrant oranges that showed up, either.

The talk of the town was definitely Moschino, though. It was Jeremy Scott’s first menswear collection for the label, which also showed in London for the first time. But the literal rainbow of logomania wasn’t a first in the slightest; if Scott’s kitschy line from his fall 2014 womenswear collection wasn’t enough, there was plenty more to be seen at menswear. Yes, brand logos were reinterpreted onto outfits in the most ridiculous ways possible, all of which will probably sell exceptionally well (why else would Jeremy Scott continue this madness?). Whether the cheesy smiley faces aligned to imitate the Chanel logo, the spin on the Hermès ribbons, or even the questionably self-deprecating “Fauxschino” prints, there was an unbelievable abundance of ridiculousness. Underneath it all, you could see a sense of sportswear, tied into sneakers and hoodies, while sleek suits were the primary candidates for Scott’s parody logo obsession. While the overall collection could be seen as try-hard, pretentious, gimmicky, attention-thirsty, and the like, you really can’t deny that Jeremy Scott knows what he’s doing (even as much as you’d probably like to). But even if the actual collection was completely removed, the perfectly diverse cast – including the slew of female models thrown into the mix – was an extra surge of positivity that every fashion show could use. Regardless of how you feel about Jeremy Scott’s designs at Moschino, it’s impossible to hate on whoever’s doing this casting the right way.

Check out some of the most noteworthy looks from day two of LCM below, and be sure to click through the above links for full collections. And stay tuned for more coverage of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows!

 

Courtesy:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/69279270@N04/

LCM, Day One

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,
Courtesy: https://www.flickr.com/photos/69279270@N04/

Courtesy: https://www.flickr.com/photos/69279270@N04/

Here we go! The spring/summer 2015 menswear shows kicked off with London Collections: Men, and in just the first day, we’ve already seen some impressive feats for next season’s men’s fashion.

Lou Dalton started things off on a high note, following up her pastoral-inspired fall 2014 range with a multifaceted take on traditional masculinity. Discrete, subtle camouflage details and heavy, rugged soles on sneaker-like shoes implemented a military element. Meanwhile, crisp whites came to life on sharply tailored silhouettes, whether shorts suits or sporty jerseys. Aside from the obligatory navy and grey, color was presented via optimistic pink separates, a touch of pale blue, and coral motifs on a series of garments; it is a spring collection, after all. The overall vision appeared refreshingly minimal, though still making a statement on the continuation of sportswear-inspired styles. It’s going to be hard to beat Lou Dalton’s spring 2015 collection.

Over at Topman Design, things got a little trippy. Of course, there was room to take things father, but the 1960s Woodstock element was extremely prominent. Flared pants and fringed jackets, psychedelic floral prints, and an abundance of denim carried the overtly thematic collection, while the models’ round framed sunglasses and bowl cuts sealed the deal. It was a far cry from the dark, gothic collection shown for fall, but it’s only appropriate to lighten the mood a bit.

If Lou Dalton’s subtly sporty elements didn’t convince you that physical fashion is here to stay, allow Astrid Andersen to further prove it. The Danish designer mentioned inspiration from Japan, specifically the robes and aprons worn by sumo wrestlers. What seemed more apparent was brightly colored pink, purple, and orange boxing-style kimonos, transparent basketball jerseys, and crushed velvet tracksuits. Oh, and wthere were some crop tops, too. Yes, this is still menswear. A hoodie/bolero hybrid and a sheer lace top over a men’s version of a sports bra were a couple of the most eyebrow raising pieces, though the collection was definitely meant for the world’s wildest sports team. In case you forgot, London’s got a bit of a reputation for pushing the boundaries, and Astrid Andersen makes that very clear.

But London’s also got a reputation for impeccable Savile Row tailoring, which was revived at Hardy Amies and Gieves & Hawkes. The latter presented an appropriately maritime theme courtesy of designer Jason Basmajian, including breton striped sweaters, double-breasted outerwear, and loads of luxurious suede. The looks were completed by too-cool shades, keeping things from erring on the overly conservative side. Though intended to be traditionally British, the collection definitely had an element of the Bostonian designer’s summertime in Cape Cod. Is the authenticity questionable? Maybe a little. But is the end result a multifaceted, perfect vision of spring/summer? No doubt.

Traditional tailoring was given an atypical twist at Matthew Miller, where pinstripes appeared on cropped trousers and biker jackets and floral wreaths adorned the otherwise dark color palette. Christopher Raeburn did aviation, while another Christopher, Mr. Shannon mixed ideas like the collages in a teenager’s bedroom with something that could’ve easily translated into football attire. Richard Nicoll stuck to his guns this season, featuring his go-to glossy, sporty separates, this time with ombré dyes and bold, almost caustic colors. Oh, and we can’t forget about Lee Roach, who meshed the militarism like we saw at Lou Dalton with his pristine, minimalist aesthetic.

Over at Agi & Sam, Japanese-inspired styles resurfaced via kimono jackets, socks with sandals, and the types of pleats popularized by Issey Miyake. The design duo ditched traditional tailoring for looser silhouettes, perfect for the warm weather, while the clean color palette kept the emphasis on the long, laid back shapes. Colors weren’t as restricted at Jonathan Saunders, where bright yellows and peaches adorned several ensembles. Marble prints, metallic details, glossy shirts, and sleek sunnies launched the line directly into the future, though it all appeared wearable and organic. A powder blue suit with a sporty white coat was possibly one of the hottest looks at LCM thus far, while the womenswear looks incorporated into the collection made for some perfect counterparts to this ultra modern man.

DKNY left things on a bit of a questionable note, to say the least. In case anyone forgot, the “NY” in the name stands for New York, making it a little odd to show in London. It probably didn’t help that the show opened with a film about Manhattan, either…yeah, that happened. Oh, and the color palette and baseball jersey tops – though nothing short of impeccable – definitely screamed Yankees. Regardless of the disconnect, the collection was undeniably New York in spirit, meaning it was wearable and versatile, with items able to transition smoothly from day into night. Cropped trousers and magnetic closures were perfect for the “on the go” man, whether in New York or London.

By the way, this was only day one. Not only is London’s Menswear Fashion Week just getting started, but there’s still Milan and Paris to follow. But don’t get exhausted yet! We can already see some exciting trends and styles emerging for spring/summer 2015 menswear.

Check out some of the most noteworthy looks from day one of LCM below, and be sure to click through the above links for full collections. And stay tuned for more coverage of the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows!

 

All photos courtesy Style.com