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diversity-ss17

The Ongoing Battle

· Runway, Thoughts · , , , , , , ,

Diversity in fashion seems like one of the industry’s longest running battles; it feels like every season, we discuss how much progress has been made and how much more we need to see. For the spring 2017 shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, this season proved to be the most diverse yet. But let’s not get too excited just yet. There’s still quite a lot of progress to be made.

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Looking Forward

· Runway · , , , , , ,

There’s so much out there in terms of fashion, and it’s up to today’s designers to provide women with choices, whether it’s a character she could become via a brand’s propositions or a message that a collection presents. Sure, sometimes the clothes are left to speak for themselves. But in that case, the pieces should carry the strength of re-presenting typical garb.

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Photo Courtesy NowFashion

Fall 2016 in Review

· Runway · , , , , ,

It feels like fashion never sleeps; right as the fall 2016 menswear shows came to a close, womenswear kicked off without missing a beat. And while there’s a lot of discussion around the somewhat “broken” cycle of Fashion Month, this was a season just like any other, with major collections, designer switchups, and all the usual elements that keep us coming back for more.

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Photo Courtesy CR Fashion Book

Next Fall

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

It seems as if the men’s fashion market is growing more and more each season, attracting increased attention to the world’s most noteworthy fashion capitals. For fall 2016, we saw the top menswear creators continue to expand the dialogue on traditional definitions of masculinity and male style, playing with various elements that redefine the formerly quiet niche.

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Demna Gvasalia; Photo Courtesy Business of Fashion

The New Kid on the Block

· News · , , , , , ,

After just three short years at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang’s tenure has come to a close. While many would prefer to see the New York-based designer focus on his namesake, rumors have been circulating for weeks about who would follow in Wang’s footsteps at the helm of the Paris-based fashion house.

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Photo Courtesy NU Icons

The New Couture

· Runway · , , , ,

Right on the heels of the fall 2015 menswear shows, the spring 2015 haute couture shows came in strong. The pinnacle of luxury, these collections tend to cater more to a very specific client, while some of the pieces are true works of art. But just because this isn’t the influx of clothes, trends, and beauty moments that come with ready-to-wear doesn’t mean it should go unnoticed; in a way, this is the best way to see the strongest codes and abilities from the top maisons. 

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AP Photo/Francois Mori

Another Switch

· News · , , , , ,
AP Photo/Francois Mori

AP Photo/Francois Mori

Right on the heels of John Galliano’s appointment to Maison Martin Margiela, news just broke of another round of designer musical chairs. Guillaume Henry will take the helm as the new creative director of Nina Ricci.

After Peter Copping’s departure from the Parisian fashion house, the end of Paris Fashion Week brought the announcement of the end of Henry’s tenure at Carven. The 35-year-old French designer had been at Carven since 2009 and had since given the brand a unique, modern edge.

Ralph Tolenado, the president of Puig, Nina Ricci’s parent company called Guillaume Henry a “major designer,” and emphasized his “great ambitions” for yet another reinvention of the brand.

Over the years, the house has evolved from the conceptual designs of Olivier Theyskens to Peter Copping’s ultra-feminine approach. Meanwhile, Henry’s work at Carven has earned the brand something of a cult following, and his midas touch is expected to continue throughout his new design endeavors. The designer’s first ready-to-wear collection for Nina Ricci is scheduled to be shown during the fall 2015 shows at Paris Fashion Week.

 

Looking forward to Guillaume Henry’s work at Nina Ricci? Tell us how you feel.

Miharayasuhiro Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Did we mention that nostalgia has been dictating a lot of designers’ collections this season? For Mihara Yasuhiro, that couldn’t have been more clear. After the recent death of Bryan McMahon, the British stylist who served as a mentor to Yasuhiro, the designer paid homage to his old friend. A mashup of the pair’s longtime collaboration was presented with the help of editors Kim Howells and Luke Day, two of the closest people to McMahon, and the end result was a story teeming with life experience, worn by years of hard work.

To many, this story could have been translated to that of a California surfer dude; with sandals, fedora hats, beaded necklaces, prints, and jeans, it would seem like just another laid back look for the spring/summer season. However, Mihara Yasuhiro’s reminiscence was the true display. Distressed layers revealed tattered, worn out fabrics below, while denim was slashed and frayed to suggest the wear of life’s trials and tribulations. Tie-dyed knits with loosened threads furthered this dissertation, while a somber piano tune dominated the show. In a nod to McMahon’s own idiosyncrasies, leopard and paisley patterns made a surprisingly cute couple, adding an upbeat spin to the rugged Miharayasuhiro man.

Mihara Yasuhiro noted, “I come from the country of the kimono and the original street style…Bryan brought classic tailoring and elegance to the brand.” This mélange of different aesthetics was evident, and instead of being dominated by sorrow, the spring 2015 Miharayasuhiro menswear collection was a beautiful thank you note to the influence and inspiration brought by Bryan McMahon.

See a few shots from the Miharayasuhiro spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

wooyoungmi

Wooyoungmi Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , ,

wooyoungmi

“Chillax,” is how Katie Chung described the vibe for the spring 2015 Wooyoungmi menswear collection. After years of involvement, the 28-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate has recently been named joint creative director of her mother’s brand. The end result was a much looser silhouette than before. Not only does a solid design aesthetic run in the family, but it also seems like opposites attract; Woo Young Mi’s sharp lines and strict shapes were given a jolt of youthful vitality thanks to Chung’s first official collaboration.

The show notes mentioned the Wooyoungmi man’s resistance to nine-to-five sartorial constraints, with ideas of an artsier inclination being tossed around. Collages of texture and bonded fabrics clarified this concept, which further came to fruition via prints inspired by the work of Carlos Cruz-Diez and Roy Lichtenstein. These motifs were reflected on sheer mesh panels, adding a sporty slant to the ensembles when paired with loose drawstring chinos or when highlighted by a shirt tied at the waist.

The quietly lively Miami color palette could serve as another reminder of the youthful changes at Wooyoungmi. Simple black, white, and grey was spruced up with pops of peaceful light blue and optimistic yellow. If you still weren’t convinced about the loosened up attitude of the Wooyoungmi man, just take a look at the modernized crocs, sure to be top items of the spring 2015 menswear season. And if that didn’t do it for you, the laid-back trap sounds at the show would surely be a selling point.

See the Wooyoungmi spring 2015 menswear collection in its entirety below!

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro

Givenchy Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Paris Fashion Week has been full of milestones and nostalgia, as designers have been looking into their own lives to create their spring 2015 menswear collections. In Riccardo Tisci’s case, the designer of the moment pregamed his upcoming 40th birthday with a return to his aesthetic roots.

It’s no secret that Tisci has long been inspired by his Catholic upbringing, shown here through precise tailoring and monochromatic palettes. The rigid combination of a white shirt, black jacket, and black tie was given a schoolboy twist via shorts and sneakers. Said sneakers added the sportswear influence that Tisci played a key role in popularizing, with select pairs extending all the way up the models’ thighs. Though substantially subdued in comparison to past seasons, the urban vibes were solidified with sheer black skullcaps topping off every look. Masculinity was far more prominent than elsewhere in Paris, while a few female counterparts – Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Saskia de Brauw, Isabeli Fontana, and more – evoked the necessary dose of dark sensuality that Riccardo loves.

Surprisingly enough, there were none of the uber-popular printed tees that we’d expect from a Givenchy menswear collection. However, don’t think that Tisci completely ditched prints altogether. Instead of Rottweilers, Madonnas, or Bambi’s, the designer turned to gypsophila, more commonly known as baby’s breath. The floral motif blossomed throughout the show, appearing in both black and white, growing more abstract to the point of minimalist camouflage, and ultimately transforming into pearl studded embellishments. The intricate, couture-quality embroidery added a feminine slant to the otherwise macho display, and it looked exceptional atop sheer layers and structured bomber jackets.

Sometimes it’s best to simply go back to basics; Riccardo Tisci’s spring 2015 menswear collection was his most simple endeavor in recent seasons, and it couldn’t have been better.

See a few shots from the Givenchy spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

 

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com

Feature photo by Boutayna Fartale