Archives

Photo Courtesy Vogue

Spring/Summer 2016

· Runway · , , , , , , ,

Yet another Fashion Month has flown by, leaving us with a lot to think about. Sure, there were tons of shows between New York, London, Milan, and Paris. But only a few truly stood out, and even less were exceptionally spellbinding; in some respects, this season feels a bit more commercial and sales-driven than ever before. However, there is always the necessary creativity and artistry that sparks our passion and keeps our interest in fashion alive. So, let’s break it down by city, highlighting the most impressive, noteworthy, and interesting moments of the spring 2016 runway season.

Read more

Demna Gvasalia; Photo Courtesy Business of Fashion

The New Kid on the Block

· News · , , , , , ,

After just three short years at Balenciaga, Alexander Wang’s tenure has come to a close. While many would prefer to see the New York-based designer focus on his namesake, rumors have been circulating for weeks about who would follow in Wang’s footsteps at the helm of the Paris-based fashion house.

Read more

Hood by Air Collection Spring Summer 2016 Menswear in Paris

The Boys of Summer

· Men's, Runway · , , , , ,

 

The fall 2015 couture shows are trekking along in Paris, but the past few weeks were all about menswear. In London, Milan, and Paris, we got a taste of what’s to come for spring and summer 2016, and designers were giving yet another new twist to typical men’s fashion.

Read more

1

Aprèm

· Editorial · , , , ,

Read more

Photo Courtesy NU Icons

The New Couture

· Runway · , , , ,

Right on the heels of the fall 2015 menswear shows, the spring 2015 haute couture shows came in strong. The pinnacle of luxury, these collections tend to cater more to a very specific client, while some of the pieces are true works of art. But just because this isn’t the influx of clothes, trends, and beauty moments that come with ready-to-wear doesn’t mean it should go unnoticed; in a way, this is the best way to see the strongest codes and abilities from the top maisons. 

Read more

Photo Courtesy Senatus

The Fall 2015 Menswear Review

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

Fashion never slows down, especially not right now. As soon as the calendar changed to 2015, a frenzy of shows and presentations kicked off, from pre-fall to haute couture to ready-to-wear and more. But let’s not forget about menswear; the fall 2015 shows just wrapped up, and there’s a lot to talk about.

Read more

Oscar de la Renta

The Loss of a Legend

· News · , , ,

Oscar de la Renta at his fashion show at Neiman Marcus-  Chevy C

One of the brightest stars of not just New York, but the global fashion scene, designer Oscar de la Renta has died at 82-years-old.

The prolific creator of some of the most iconic fashion ensembles, Mr. de la Renta was born July 22, 1932 in the Dominican Republic. He studied at the Academy of San Fernando in Madrid, where his sketches gained the attention of the wife of the U.S. Ambassador to Spain, who subsequently commissioned him to design her daughter’s wedding dress. Said gown appeared on the cover of Life magazine, putting de la Renta on everyone’s radar. He landed an apprenticeship with Cristobal Balenciaga before heading to Paris, where he was immediately offered a job at Lanvin. Two years later, Oscar de la Renta found himself designing for Elizabeth Arden in New York. And it wasn’t long before the designer made the city his empire; in 1965, Oscar de la Renta’s namesake brand was launched.

The news of Oscar de la Renta’s death comes just after the announcement of Peter Copping taking the reigns as creative director of the house, following his tenure at Nina Ricci. Though there were rumors that de la Renta had been battling cancer for years, his passing was an unexpected – and utterly devastating – shock for the entire fashion community.

We can remember Oscar de la Renta for his undeniable vitality and relentless passion for his work. A true magician and a modern-day couturier, the designer never put anything above his primary goal of making women look and feel truly remarkable. It’s no wonder that his pieces were go-to’s for everything from red carpet events to daytime attire. And although he worked through the New York fashion market growing more chaotic, even more aggressive at times, he still never sacrificed vibrance, glamor, and undeniable elegance. Always a highlight of New York Fashion Week, de la Renta’s shows would be a parade of stunning women from all different racial, cultural, and physical makeups, exuding beauty and grace in his classically luxurious designs.

Oscar de la Renta’s necessary jolt of life into the fashion scene in New York and the rest of the world made him one of the most valuable and influential designers of all time. He will be missed dearly by the fashion community and people around the globe, but his legacy could never be forgotten.

trends

The Spring 2015 Menswear Trend Report

· Men's, Runway, Trend Reports · , , , , , , ,

trends

Another season of menswear has come and gone, bringing both old and new styles from the world’s top designers. A sharp suit never loses its touch, while sleek minimalism has been reinvented in a variety of ways. And other classics were given unique spins, like the subtle pinstripes seen at Dries Van Noten or Prada’s take on luxury denim. Seasonably appropriate bright colors made an obligatory appearance, too. However, the absence of color is always in, shown by all-white looks at Neil Barrett and Christophe Lemaire. It goes without saying that the sportswear trend has become completely ubiquitous; sneakers and tech fabrics were virtually everywhere, even at the typically refined Ermenegildo Zegna. And who could forget the surfer dudes and beach boys that popped up everywhere from Saint Laurent to Miharayasuhiro? Whether fueled by nostalgia or pure joy, designers proved their immense creativity and inventiveness. Here’s a look at some of the top trends of the spring 2015 menswear season.

 

WORK IT OUT

Maybe it’s the “normcore” movement, or maybe people just want to be a bit more practical. But whatever the reason, sporty fashion isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. More designers than we can count traded in dress shoes for sneakers with their formalwear, with fresh kicks popping up everywhere from Calvin Klein to Lanvin. And lots of sports were getting attention, too; baseball tees were just as common as hoodies and track pants. Meanwhile, athleticism met aestheticism for ballet-inspired garb at Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens, the latter moving his regularly sporty pieces into new territory. While going to the gym could still be a pain in the ass, at least you’ll look stylish as hell during your next workout.

 

 

SURFBOARDT

Yes, we know, surfing is a sport, too. But despite the amount of neoprene this season, most designers weren’t exactly sending wetsuits down the runway. Instead, it was more about the surfer attitude, personified via tie dye at Miharayasuhiro and Kolor and palm tree motifs from the likes of Canali and MSGM. If the beaded necklaces and bracelets à la Kris Van Assche didn’t get the point across enough, then maybe the playful mix-matched prints at Paul Smith would do a better job at embodying the carefree beach boy vibes. And the best part? No surf skills are required to rock these styles.

 

 

GOOD JEANS

Denim is one of those things that’s so omnipresent that it would seem weird for it to be considered a trend. But for spring 2015 menswear, designers have been taking your favorite jeans and putting them in a completely different frame. Just check out Phillip Lim’s denim jumpsuit, or the all-denim suit seen at Dior Homme. And it’s impossible to ignore the crazy prints on the fabric at Sibling or the atypical variations at Junya Watanabe. Even Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens incorporated some denim into their unique aesthetics. On one hand, everybody’s got some jeans they can use to fit into this trend. But let’s just say you’re going to have to step it up to meet these designer denim standards.

 

 

JUMP ON IT

Speaking of that denim number at Phillip Lim, jumpsuits have become quite a thing this season. Well, maybe not every designer has gotten into the idea of a men’s one-piece, but Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo were sure feeling it. Give it some time, and we have a feeling plenty more labels are going to jump on this trend.

 

 

STYLE SOLDIERS

Like many other trends, military-inspired looks have been presented in fresh new ways this season. Christopher Bailey always reinvents and masters the army aesthetic at Burberry, and that was no different this time around. Meanwhile, outerwear with utilitarian pockets and epaulets were ever present at Louis Vuitton, and Christophe Lemaire added a similar slant to his monochrome collection. And what would military fashion be without some camouflage? If you want the classic print, then Valentino had plenty of looks for that. But the floral camo shown at Givenchy and the modernized, graphic versions at Sacai were just as noteworthy.

 

 

SPRING/SUMMER OF ’69

From the late 1960s through the 1970s, this era of bohemian style meshed perfectly with classically tailored leisure suits. Antonio Marras veered towards the latter, while Topman Design paid homage to Woodstock. And while Katie Eary’s collection felt relatively Western, there was a noticeable throwback element, too. Whether you’re feeling the sophisticated side from Tom Ford or a bit more like Saint Laurent’s spin on Jimi Hendrix, now would definitely be the time to hit up your favorite vintage shop.

 

 

EARN YOUR STRIPES

Another classic turned on its head, the pinstripe has gotten completely rejuvenated for spring 2015. Sure, the suiting at Trussardi could’ve come straight out of the 1940s. But the 3D stripes at Margiela and the always-eccentric variations at J.W. Anderson felt totally fresh. And let’s not leave out labels like E. Tautz and Matthew Miller, who essentially kicked off this trend during London Collections: Men. Who said this pattern had to be boring?

 

 

WHITE OUT

It was no surprise when we saw all-white ensembles at minimalist labels like Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. But we’d almost forgotten how essential this look is for summertime, proven by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Lou Dalton, and many, many more. All black will always be a thing, and plenty of other colors are having a moment this season, too. But sometimes white is right, and that’s that.

 

 

HERE COMES THE SUN

One of those other colors currently having a moment is yellow. Whether mellow or vibrant, there’s been a whole lot of jaune this season. Acne showed us that there’s nothing to be afraid of when it comes to wearing a big bright yellow jacket, while Berluti sent out a whole range of styles in the sunny shade. And we have to talk about the yellow neoprene jacket from Neil Barrett. Alongside things like the little pops at Calvin Klein, designers made it clear that this is going to be a pretty bright season, and there’s nothing to be afraid of.

 

 

REAL MEN WEAR PINK

Another color that used to formerly terrify men everywhere, pink has been shown as more masculine than ever thanks to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and other A-list labels. Marc Jacobs’ playful flamingo prints showed a fun way to incorporate this hue into your spectrum; pieces at Thom Browne and Comme des Garçons put the creators’ signature eccentricity in the bold shade. And with Rick Owens even featuring a rose ensemble, it’s obvious that it’s time to think pink.

 

 

EASTWARD BOUND

Eastern cultures have always been a huge inspiration for designers across the globe, and that was just as evident this season as ever. Raf Simons‘ nostalgic collection featured a series of Japanese-inspired prints, a thank you note to some of his earliest supporters. At Agi & Sam, the London-based design duo took things almost literally with kimono-esque tops and sandals worn with socks. And they weren’t alone; Craig Green, Phillip Lim, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake, and plenty of others got in on the action, experimenting with everything from traditional Japanese garb to streetwear to minimalism and more. While we’d love to see what’s really going on over in Tokyo, this current Eastern obsession is definitely looking good.

 

 

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S ROBES

Not quite kimonos, long silk robes are making an unexpected appearance in the men’s fashion sphere. Dries Van Noten was on top of this trend, sending a whole series of similar styles down the runway at his romantic Paris show. Haider Ackermann loves a good robe, too, so it’s no surprise that we saw one or two in his collection. A couple pieces at Umit Benan had us headed straight for the shower, while Hedi Slimane gave his signature rock ‘n’ roll, bohemian touch to a variation at Saint Laurent. Like jumpsuits, it might take a minute or two for this fad to catch on. But if anything, it’s definitely refreshing to see designers’ new takes on traditional men’s fashion.

All photos courtesy Style.com

20140706-163717-59837885.jpg

Paris, with Love

· Beyond · , , , ,

No amount of time in Paris could ever be enough. Being able to return for the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows – a surprise opportunity that came at the very last minute – was an incredible blessing, and the amount of personal and professional growth that came from just one week was phenomenal. There wasn’t nearly enough time for photo shoots or exploration or other projects. However, the shows weren’t the only sources of motivation and inspiration; simply being in Paris is the type of experience that gives you life.

Who knows when Des Phosphènes will be back in the City of Lights? But as last week has shown, sometimes the most amazing things can happen when you least expect it.

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro

Miharayasuhiro Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Did we mention that nostalgia has been dictating a lot of designers’ collections this season? For Mihara Yasuhiro, that couldn’t have been more clear. After the recent death of Bryan McMahon, the British stylist who served as a mentor to Yasuhiro, the designer paid homage to his old friend. A mashup of the pair’s longtime collaboration was presented with the help of editors Kim Howells and Luke Day, two of the closest people to McMahon, and the end result was a story teeming with life experience, worn by years of hard work.

To many, this story could have been translated to that of a California surfer dude; with sandals, fedora hats, beaded necklaces, prints, and jeans, it would seem like just another laid back look for the spring/summer season. However, Mihara Yasuhiro’s reminiscence was the true display. Distressed layers revealed tattered, worn out fabrics below, while denim was slashed and frayed to suggest the wear of life’s trials and tribulations. Tie-dyed knits with loosened threads furthered this dissertation, while a somber piano tune dominated the show. In a nod to McMahon’s own idiosyncrasies, leopard and paisley patterns made a surprisingly cute couple, adding an upbeat spin to the rugged Miharayasuhiro man.

Mihara Yasuhiro noted, “I come from the country of the kimono and the original street style…Bryan brought classic tailoring and elegance to the brand.” This mélange of different aesthetics was evident, and instead of being dominated by sorrow, the spring 2015 Miharayasuhiro menswear collection was a beautiful thank you note to the influence and inspiration brought by Bryan McMahon.

See a few shots from the Miharayasuhiro spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com