Archives

Valentino RTW Spring 2018

THE SS18 TREND REPORT

· Fashion, Runway, Trend Reports · , , , ,

With each season comes a new wave of trends. Whether a practical upgrade on regular wardrobe staples or a more over-the-top direction, we’ve rounded up some of the most notable fashion fads from the Spring / Summer 2018 shows.

 

Read more

diversity-ss17

The Ongoing Battle

· Runway, Thoughts · , , , , , , ,

Diversity in fashion seems like one of the industry’s longest running battles; it feels like every season, we discuss how much progress has been made and how much more we need to see. For the spring 2017 shows in New York, London, Milan, and Paris, this season proved to be the most diverse yet. But let’s not get too excited just yet. There’s still quite a lot of progress to be made.

Read more

Keita Maruyama ; REUTERS/Thomas Peter

Tokyo Calling

· Runway · , , , ,

We’ve said it before and we’ll say it again: Tokyo is kind of where it’s at. The hub of Japanese fashion continuously provides unlimited inspiration, featuring everything from minimalism to avant-garde to Harajuku eccentricity and more. And the recent fall 2016 shows were certainly no exception.

Read more

Photo Courtesy Senatus

The Fall 2015 Menswear Review

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

Fashion never slows down, especially not right now. As soon as the calendar changed to 2015, a frenzy of shows and presentations kicked off, from pre-fall to haute couture to ready-to-wear and more. But let’s not forget about menswear; the fall 2015 shows just wrapped up, and there’s a lot to talk about.

Read more

Miharayasuhiro Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Did we mention that nostalgia has been dictating a lot of designers’ collections this season? For Mihara Yasuhiro, that couldn’t have been more clear. After the recent death of Bryan McMahon, the British stylist who served as a mentor to Yasuhiro, the designer paid homage to his old friend. A mashup of the pair’s longtime collaboration was presented with the help of editors Kim Howells and Luke Day, two of the closest people to McMahon, and the end result was a story teeming with life experience, worn by years of hard work.

To many, this story could have been translated to that of a California surfer dude; with sandals, fedora hats, beaded necklaces, prints, and jeans, it would seem like just another laid back look for the spring/summer season. However, Mihara Yasuhiro’s reminiscence was the true display. Distressed layers revealed tattered, worn out fabrics below, while denim was slashed and frayed to suggest the wear of life’s trials and tribulations. Tie-dyed knits with loosened threads furthered this dissertation, while a somber piano tune dominated the show. In a nod to McMahon’s own idiosyncrasies, leopard and paisley patterns made a surprisingly cute couple, adding an upbeat spin to the rugged Miharayasuhiro man.

Mihara Yasuhiro noted, “I come from the country of the kimono and the original street style…Bryan brought classic tailoring and elegance to the brand.” This mélange of different aesthetics was evident, and instead of being dominated by sorrow, the spring 2015 Miharayasuhiro menswear collection was a beautiful thank you note to the influence and inspiration brought by Bryan McMahon.

See a few shots from the Miharayasuhiro spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

wooyoungmi

Wooyoungmi Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , ,

wooyoungmi

“Chillax,” is how Katie Chung described the vibe for the spring 2015 Wooyoungmi menswear collection. After years of involvement, the 28-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate has recently been named joint creative director of her mother’s brand. The end result was a much looser silhouette than before. Not only does a solid design aesthetic run in the family, but it also seems like opposites attract; Woo Young Mi’s sharp lines and strict shapes were given a jolt of youthful vitality thanks to Chung’s first official collaboration.

The show notes mentioned the Wooyoungmi man’s resistance to nine-to-five sartorial constraints, with ideas of an artsier inclination being tossed around. Collages of texture and bonded fabrics clarified this concept, which further came to fruition via prints inspired by the work of Carlos Cruz-Diez and Roy Lichtenstein. These motifs were reflected on sheer mesh panels, adding a sporty slant to the ensembles when paired with loose drawstring chinos or when highlighted by a shirt tied at the waist.

The quietly lively Miami color palette could serve as another reminder of the youthful changes at Wooyoungmi. Simple black, white, and grey was spruced up with pops of peaceful light blue and optimistic yellow. If you still weren’t convinced about the loosened up attitude of the Wooyoungmi man, just take a look at the modernized crocs, sure to be top items of the spring 2015 menswear season. And if that didn’t do it for you, the laid-back trap sounds at the show would surely be a selling point.

See the Wooyoungmi spring 2015 menswear collection in its entirety below!

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro

Givenchy Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Paris Fashion Week has been full of milestones and nostalgia, as designers have been looking into their own lives to create their spring 2015 menswear collections. In Riccardo Tisci’s case, the designer of the moment pregamed his upcoming 40th birthday with a return to his aesthetic roots.

It’s no secret that Tisci has long been inspired by his Catholic upbringing, shown here through precise tailoring and monochromatic palettes. The rigid combination of a white shirt, black jacket, and black tie was given a schoolboy twist via shorts and sneakers. Said sneakers added the sportswear influence that Tisci played a key role in popularizing, with select pairs extending all the way up the models’ thighs. Though substantially subdued in comparison to past seasons, the urban vibes were solidified with sheer black skullcaps topping off every look. Masculinity was far more prominent than elsewhere in Paris, while a few female counterparts – Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Saskia de Brauw, Isabeli Fontana, and more – evoked the necessary dose of dark sensuality that Riccardo loves.

Surprisingly enough, there were none of the uber-popular printed tees that we’d expect from a Givenchy menswear collection. However, don’t think that Tisci completely ditched prints altogether. Instead of Rottweilers, Madonnas, or Bambi’s, the designer turned to gypsophila, more commonly known as baby’s breath. The floral motif blossomed throughout the show, appearing in both black and white, growing more abstract to the point of minimalist camouflage, and ultimately transforming into pearl studded embellishments. The intricate, couture-quality embroidery added a feminine slant to the otherwise macho display, and it looked exceptional atop sheer layers and structured bomber jackets.

Sometimes it’s best to simply go back to basics; Riccardo Tisci’s spring 2015 menswear collection was his most simple endeavor in recent seasons, and it couldn’t have been better.

See a few shots from the Givenchy spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

 

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com

Feature photo by Boutayna Fartale

Kris Van Assche Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , ,

“This is not a retrospective show at all,” Kris Van Assche urged. Aside from his work as the creative director at Dior Homme, the Belgian designer’s spring 2015 menswear range marked his tenth year and twentieth collection for his eponymous label. But instead of looking back on what’s been done so far, KVA decided to put a new twist on his own signatures.

The sharp silhouette that Kris Van Assche is known for was given a new dynamic through different forms of experimentation approached with a bold sense of confidence. Knitwear was thinned out to the farthest extent, providing a useful element of diaphaneity; the designer added a twist to his signatures by layering unexpected bomber jackets over fine-tailored, double-breasted blazers. Meanwhile, the obligatory skinny tie was tucked into kangaroo-like pockets on several shirts, vanishing halfway down. Blue and white tweed resembled distressed denim, while strips of the actual fabric were used as belts. Grey check pieces sang a relatively grungy tune when compared to the sky blue and salmon colors in the collection. But in bright orange, a similar pattern felt a bit more punk. And when combined with slits at the knees of several trousers and beaded, surfer-style bracelets and necklaces, these looks made way for a more rebellious Kris Van Assche man.

However, this rebellious streak was done subtly, thanks to the necessary dose of luxury and quality that Van Assche is known for. The overall image projected a sense of endearment, taking a fresh new look at the world, ready to conquer it. Perhaps this is how Kris Van Assche viewed this exciting new chapter in his life; the designer’s mantra implies that a man’s clothing is an expression of his personality. After a decade of his own namesake line, who could blame him for exploring new territories?

See the Kris Van Assche spring 2015 menswear collection in its entirety below!

All photos in this gallery by Yannis Viamos/indigitalimages.com

Photo by Boutayna Fartale

Feature photos by Scott Shapiro

Issey Miyake Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

What do you get when you combine exotic resorts with the lush landscape of Palau as sources of inspiration? For Yusuke Takahashi, the end result was his spring 2015 collection for Issey Miyake menswear, titled “Tropical Dandies.”

With pushed back hair and megawatt smiles, models happily pranced down the long white runway, evoking the scene of a boardwalk reaching towards the Pacific Ocean. It was exactly the image Takahashi intended to project, providing the perfect pick-me-up on an already bright and sunny Parisian morning. Pumping music, vibrant colors, and powerful struts took us back to some of the most fun days of fashion in the 1990s. Good vibes were aplenty, but the clothes themselves were far more conceptual than meets the eye; would you expect anything less from the always innovative Issey Miyake brand?

Yusuke Takahashi’s collection took us on a journey from a verdant jungle to white sand beaches, extending all the way into the deep sea. The first segment was presented through unique materials. Woven from wild banana, abaca was combined with pineapple via linen and nylon to create sharp tweed jackets. Though the show notes described the silhouette as urban, the materials yielded a light feeling that was perfect for the resort that Takahashi dreamed of.

Things got a little more urban as we made our way to the beach thanks to a spectrum of sneakers that contributed to a sportier, dynamic style. There were garments in shades of ivory like the purest of sand alongside items printed with multicolored jellyfish motifs, while iridescent pieces resembled light on water. The reflections of the sea didn’t stop there, either. In a series of suits, shirts, ponchos, and scarves, four different shades of blue were pleated in classic Issey Miyake fashion to create pale gradient stripes.

Moving further into the deep, the “Abyss” series closed off Yusuke Takahashi’s spring 2015 show. And the depth didn’t just apply to the physical quality of the ocean; these pieces came with a profound message, done in collaboration with BLOOM Association, an NGO dedicated to marine conservation. An homage to the beauty of deep sea fauna and an urgent reminder of our responsibility to protect it, images of aquatic creatures were digitally reproduced onto garments with enhanced colors and vibrant patterns.

Not that we would expect anything but impressive work from Mr. Takahashi, it seems like each season opens a new dimension to his multifaceted design aesthetic. The message of consciousness for our environment prominently stood out, bolstered by a fun, vibrant, uplifting, and energetic collection. What more could you want from a fashion show?

See a few shots from the Issey Miyake spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

Photo by Branko Popovic

Raf Simons Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,
Photo by Branko Popovic

Photo by Branko Popovic

“…The use of flash photography will not be permitted on cameras or phones due to special lighting,” a voice announced to the all-standing audience at Raf Simons’ spring 2015 menswear show. What was to unfold after was a thrilling, astonishing experience unlike any other.

The lighting that the announcement referred to was the stuff of nightmares, or rather that of a 1970s horror film. Green lights, symbolizing nature, were juxtaposed with a hellish red, appropriately meant to indicate danger. While the deep, psychoanalytical symbols were just getting started there, the end result was an ambiance akin to that of the climax scene in Carrie. Luckily, there was no blood or fire, and the models didn’t demolish the crowd at the Place Vendôme show space. But the eery undertones were furthered by the chilling music. Many people heard notes of Twin Peaks, though it was actually Mica Levi’s sounds for Under the Skin that played, to which the models paced around the maze-like runway in a repetitive loop of panic and power. With their moistened faces, wide eyes peering beneath loose strands of scraggly hair, Raf Simons’ boys were like a fashion army of Carrie Whites. Perhaps all of these observations would have changed if the audience had been seated; according to Simons, “you perceive things differently when you’re upright.” Did we mention the psychological undertones?

Surprisingly, the clothes themselves took on a completely different meaning. Sure, the thrilling images of Jaws and terrified swimmers fit the atmosphere, some of the many parts of the collages that garnished sailor collars on the backs of coats. Alongside photos of a lonely astronaut and a roller coaster, ideas of fear, danger, isolation, and more were evoked, while everything had a significance in Simons’ own personal history. Like a mood board attached to clothing, Raf’s pieces weren’t entirely about horror after all. Instead, nostalgia seemed to be the overarching element.

An old passport photo of himself in a Superman t-shirt, pictures of his parents, and moments with friends were just a few other motifs that helped delineate Simons’ self-exploration. Personal, indeed. Slightly leaning towards the professional side, a snapshot of koi fish and a painting of Mount Fuji by Hokusai served as metaphoric thank-you letters to some of Simons’ earliest supporters, further emphasized by Japanese-inspired printed knit tops.

So, what does it all mean? How did Simons’ stream of consciousness correlate with an identical environment to that infamous prom scene? Maybe we’re overanalyzing it; from a strictly sartorial standpoint, there were plenty of pieces that one could argue were just fashion, nothing more. Relatively eccentric prints were shielded by minimal, solid-colored coats. Simple button-down shirts with appropriately fitted trousers created a clean silhouette, paired with a spectrum of sneakers, many of which lit up with the models’ every steps. Yes, those same light-up kicks from early childhood have made a comeback, and there’s no doubt that they’re going to sell like wildfire. But is there symbolism in that? Could it be a continuation of the nostalgia?

It’s the type of show that could make you cry. No, not because the menacing lights and spooky sounds made it seem like the models would lock you in and take you down. Conversely, it was the type of thing that reminds you what there is to love about fashion. The psychology, the thoughtfulness, the history, and the emotion. Whatever it means, whether we’re completely misinterpreting it or not, Raf Simons’ spring 2015 menswear show was a psychology lesson at its finest. The designer took a deeper look into his own mind, making us do the same.

See a few shots from the Raf Simons spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Yannis Viamos/indigitalimages.com

Photo by Boutayna Fartale