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Half a Decade with Warby Parker

· News, Style · , , , ,

 

February 2010 feels like just yesterday. But since then, Warby Parker’s set up numerous stores throughout the U.S., distributed glasses to over a million people in need worldwide, and pivoted itself as one of the most popular eyewear brands, perfectly meshing affordability and style. With an expansive variety of optical accessories, the label has certainly built itself up in the past five years, and that’s definitely something worth celebrating.

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Photo Courtesy NU Icons

The New Couture

· Runway · , , , ,

Right on the heels of the fall 2015 menswear shows, the spring 2015 haute couture shows came in strong. The pinnacle of luxury, these collections tend to cater more to a very specific client, while some of the pieces are true works of art. But just because this isn’t the influx of clothes, trends, and beauty moments that come with ready-to-wear doesn’t mean it should go unnoticed; in a way, this is the best way to see the strongest codes and abilities from the top maisons. 

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On Our Radar: Aya Jones

· Models, The Come-Up · , , , , , ,

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Casting at the spring 2015 ready-to-wear shows was beyond atrocious, with too many whitewashed lineups of forgettable faces. But that doesn’t mean there weren’t a few standouts. Take, for example, Aya Jones N’Guessan.

Aya first grabbed our attention when she walked exclusively for Prada in Milan. Surprisingly one of the more impressive casts of the season (see Gemma, Malaika, Stam, Lara, Issa, and more), it would be easy for any new face to get lost in the mix. But that’s the thing: Aya’s not just another new face. With a virtually immaculate appearance, reminiscent of early 90s Naomi and a touch of FKA Twigs, this stunner is bringing real beauty back to the runways; no shade to any other models of the moment, but how often do we see a human being this beautiful?

Not surprisingly, her turn at Prada got a lot of other designers’ attention when Paris Fashion Week rolled around. The world was blessed to see Aya Jones at Nina Ricci, Paco Rabanne, Maison Martin Margiela, Viktor & Rolf, Sacai, Giambattista Valli, Sonia Rykiel, Valentino, and Miu Miu (did we miss any?). To debut halfway through the show circuit and garner so much buzz is pretty impressive, so we can hope that big things are ahead for this gorgeous rookie.

Check out some more photos of Aya Jones N’Guessan below, and let us know what you think of this new face!

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Photo: Tiziana Fabi. Source: AFP

The Casting Catastrophe

· Features, Models, Runway · , , , , , ,
Photo: Tiziana Fabi. Source: AFP

Photo: Tiziana Fabi. Source: AFP

The lights dimmed, and the first statuesque figure turned the corner around the massive purple sand dunes at the spring 2015 Prada show. There she was. After six long years since a runway appearance, and even after she allegedly quit modeling for good, Gemma Ward was back. Many could state that her appearance suggests a restoration of the days when models had recognizable names, faces, and personas. Sure, the era of the supermodel was long-gone by the time Ward and her contemporaries had peaked in the mid-2000s, but memorable, unique, and multifaceted beauty was still in. These days, that’s not the case.

Sure, some other notable industry icons walked the runways this season besides just Gemma Ward. Lara Stone made a rare runway appearance at Prada, too, as did Jessica Stam. Stam also popped up at Public School in New York, Mugler in Paris, and many more shows this season. Meanwhile, Naomi Campbell, Mariacarla Boscono, Natasha Poly, Jourdan Dunn, Karlie Kloss, and other established mannequins counteracted the larger trend of the “blank slate.” But aside from a handful of girls who embody what it means to be a model, this season’s casting was the saddest yet.

Is this really what the fashion industry is coming to? While the idea of a model being a “blank slate” was originally intended to place a higher emphasis on the clothes, all-white casts of – for lack of a better word – strikingly unattractive teenagers has become an even bigger distraction.

Of course, the biggest problem with the casting this season was the lack of diversity. It comes as a major shock that after a couple seasons of mild improvements, casts have been seemingly more whitewashed than ever before. The bad habits reared their ugly heads once again: one or two black models was the norm at most shows, with even less Asian models on the runways, and almost no models of South Asian, Middle Eastern, or Latina descent. Some even thought it would be okay to send all of their models of color down the runway at once.

Did we all forget about Bethann Hardison‘s amazing work in an attempt to diversify the runways less than a year ago? Hardison just received a CFDA award a few months ago for her efforts. Has that just been erased from everyone’s memory? The usual perpetrators were back at it this season. Casts appeared whiter than ever at Calvin Klein, Rodarte, Jil Sander, Céline, John Galliano, Dior, Proenza Schouler, and more. Meanwhile, Simon Porte Jacquemus deleted comments and blocked users on Instagram who criticized his all-white cast, stating offense because of his supposed obsession with women who look like his mother. Sorry, but the Oedipus Complex doesn’t qualify as a valid excuse for racist casting.

Even labels with typically diverse casts fell behind this season. Riccardo Tisci previously mentioned his advocacy of diversity on the runway, but at his latest show for Givenchy, that didn’t translate. Nor did Tom Ford’s penchant for a cast of multiethnic sex bombs; does Natalie Westling’s excruciating hobble really represent this label?

This issue poses an even bigger problem that people might not be conscious of. Again, models aren’t the household names that they once were, save Cara, Karlie, Gisele, and their contemporaries. But models are still everywhere. The girls that walk all of these shows will be the ones to snatch up the advertisements, and these large-scale visions of what is beautiful will perpetuate and even worsen the already twisted beauty standards around the globe. Why would a brand want to be seen as a bastion of white supremacy, represented by a hard-to-look-at 16-year-old nonetheless? And for the casting supposedly “based on socioeconomics,” why would you want to alienate yourself completely from certain groups?

On the bright side, there are still a few brands whose presentations should be commended. Of course, there’s always room to be improved in this department, but labels like Balmain, Burberry Prorsum, Diane von Furstenberg, and Rick Owens showed that it is possible to cast a more diverse range of models, while recognizable faces of all ethnic backgrounds don’t take away from the clothes. Meanwhile, relative newcomers like Malaika Firth, Issa Lish, Binx Walton, Bhumika Arora, Leila Nda, and Aya Jones provided a hopeful view of the multiethnic runways and memorable figures to come. The struggle towards diversifying the runway isn’t about all-black, all-Asian, or all-any other type of show. Instead, it shouldn’t be seen as some type of major surprise if a lineup consists of a proportionate amount of models from various ethnicities. There’s a time and a place for Harleth Kuusik, and there’s no reason why she can’t walk the runway alongside girls like Dylan Xue and Emely Montero.

Of course, there is so much more to this issue; we haven’t even touched menswear, and we could get way more in-depth from a sociological and historical framework. To the people getting annoyed by the incessant discussion of this topic in the fashion sphere: it’s just as annoying to have to keep bringing it up. This piece isn’t meant to call out a bunch of designers, cyber-bully models, or cause unnecessary Internet drama within the industry. None of the designers’ immense talent is in question, as even some of the most disappointing casts carried some insanely beautiful work. But it’s time to wake up. If calling out racist actions causes a stir, then maybe that’s what the industry needs. This isn’t the 1950s (not that racism was ever okay), and it’s time for the fashion industry to catch up to the rest of the world. And while this type of change won’t happen overnight, we could at least start seeing more unique beauties like in years past. Let’s hope that Gemma Ward’s return will usher in a resurgence of inspiring, immensely beautiful fashion models, and let’s hope that diversity comes along with it.

 

Tell us how you feel about the current climate of the modeling industry, and don’t hesitate to repost and share this article.

AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

The Top 10 Collections of the Spring 2015 Menswear Season

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , , , , , ,
AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

AP Photo, Jacques Brinon

Just like any menswear season, there have been tons of collections between London, Milan, and Paris. And while every single label has presented exceptional work from their tremendously talented teams, there were a few that really blew our minds. Sure, this post might come with a little bit of bias. But once you read about these stunning endeavors, you’re sure to see where we’re coming from. Here are the top 10 collections from the spring 2015 menswear shows (in no particular order) as ranked by Des Phosphènes’ creator & EIC, Scott Shapiro.

 

 

WALTER VAN BEIRENDONCK

To many, Walter Van Beirendonck‘s collections are far from wearable. True, mix-matched prints with lots of powerful subliminal messages might not be everyone’s go-to office attire. But what’s really impressive is the message that accompanies the show. For spring 2015, WVB explored the invasion of privacy as a force worth fighting against, battling it with, for lack of a better word, the best clusterfuck imaginable. It’s wonderfully refreshing to see such creativity from a designer given the circumstances of today’s commercialized fashion industry; Walter Van Beirendonck’s uncompromising vision is far more appealing than any traditional tux.

NEIL BARRETT

Simplicity goes a long way, always making room for the details to shine through. Case in point: Neil Barrett’s spring 2015 menswear collection. The sporty range started off with loads of all-white ensembles, eventually featuring dark blues and violets, camel and camo, all in a whole lot of fantastic fabrics. The bonded fabrics came with bountiful structure; leather, suede, and gabardine gave silhouettes a voluminous yet sleek shape. And don’t even get us started on that to-die-for yellow neoprene jacket. Neil Barrett’s mastery of details in the creation of sharp, relatively minimal designs is what often makes menswear so exciting.

CHRISTOPHE LEMAIRE

If you want to talk about minimalism, look no further than Christophe Lemaire’s spring 2015 menswear endeavor. When reviewing our spring 2015 menswear trend report, you probably noticed a lot from the designer. And it makes sense; the collection showed versatility at its finest, featuring everything from clean white looks to luxury denim to Japanese-inspired styles and more. Of course, every ensemble was a true fashion creation, but the limitless possibilities of how to interpret the pieces allows for plenty of benefits for the Parisian label. We’re sure this collection will face loads of retail and editorial success.

LOU DALTON

Starting off London Fashion Week and the entire spring 2015 menswear show circuit, Lou Dalton nixed the narrative and stuck to the fundamentals of fashion. However, her collection was far from elementary. The tailoring was sharp, a considerably different silhouette from this season’s looser suiting, and these outfits looked phenomenal when paired with simple yet sporty sneakers. Baseball shirts and no-fuss bomber jackets were some of the real stars of the show, while bursts of light blue, pale pink, and vivacious coral truly livened up the looks.

BALENCIAGA

Without the huge production of a runway show, it’s easy to forget that a collection was even presented. But that’s definitely not the case when it comes to Balenciaga, as the historic Parisian fashion house’s men’s department was taken to more modern, urban territory. Alexander Wang’s New York vibes couldn’t be left behind when he took the helm as creative director of Balenciaga, but the designer still knows how to separate his two projects. With new shapes and styles, his latest was full of innovation, from Cocoon-inspired Mackintosh coats to the sleekest of suits. With concealed plackets abound, there were few buttons or closures to be seen. Yet the best part had to be the pairing of these exceptionally elegant ensembles with laid-back trainers. Good ol’ Alex Wang.

RAF SIMONS

Raf Simons is another designer whose amazing collection was highlighted by complexity and immense creativity. His nostalgic references to his past and to several of the elements that have shaped his present were shown through collages of photos with psychological implications, all of which took place on structured yet shapely silhouettes. The show itself was one of the most fascinating of the season; ominous red lights that harkened back to 1970s horror films dominated the display. Meanwhile, vibrant light-up sneakers and inventive printed tops are poised to be some of the hottest pieces of spring 2015.

GIVENCHY

Like many other designers this season, Riccardo Tisci went back to his roots for his spring 2015 Givenchy menswear collection. The end result was far more simplified than his recent collections, featuring a predominantly monochrome version of his urban, streetwear-influenced aesthetic. From the floral camouflage prints to even the skullcaps that the models wore, his latest looks felt fresh and inspiring. And the womenswear ensembles provided an exciting preview of his next ready-to-wear work, looking exceptional on the likes of Adriana Lima and Candice Swanepoel.

CALVIN KLEIN COLLECTION

Italo Zucchelli never disappoints at Calvin Klein Collection. This season, the designer’s Milan show featured his signature minimalism in a predominant shade of nude, while pops of bright yellow and orange brought the ensembles to life. Sporty outerwear and vibrant eyewear appeared natural, making way for a wearable, simple yet bold range of menswear looks. The collection proved that aesthetic extras aren’t always necessary, and the straightforward designs were perfect for today’s modern man.

ISSEY MIYAKE

At Issey Miyake, Yusuke Takahashi evoked something different from the predictable, explicitly Japanese-influenced styles. Instead, he drew inspiration from exotic resorts and the landscape of Palau, which resulted in an exciting mélange of innovative design techniques. On a journey from the jungle to the beach into the deep sea, Takahashi explored the construction of fabrics via an unexpected use of pineapple and banana in creating jackets, ultra-flattering pleating to make beautiful gradient prints, and the digital reproduction of colorful images onto his beautiful garments. And just when things couldn’t seem any better, the show was bolstered by upbeat music and smiling models. Talk about good vibes.

LANVIN

The white neoprene outerwear pieces were enough to make us fall in love with the spring 2015 Lanvin menswear collection. But Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver wouldn’t leave it at just that, including super desirable sneakers with their luxury looks. Silky fabrics and loosened shapes were other positives, and leather accessories appeared to be of the highest quality imaginable. Decadent elegance mixed with today’s active, on-the-go energy to create one of the best – and most appropriate – collections of the season.

All photos via Style.com

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The Spring 2015 Menswear Trend Report

· Men's, Runway, Trend Reports · , , , , , , ,

trends

Another season of menswear has come and gone, bringing both old and new styles from the world’s top designers. A sharp suit never loses its touch, while sleek minimalism has been reinvented in a variety of ways. And other classics were given unique spins, like the subtle pinstripes seen at Dries Van Noten or Prada’s take on luxury denim. Seasonably appropriate bright colors made an obligatory appearance, too. However, the absence of color is always in, shown by all-white looks at Neil Barrett and Christophe Lemaire. It goes without saying that the sportswear trend has become completely ubiquitous; sneakers and tech fabrics were virtually everywhere, even at the typically refined Ermenegildo Zegna. And who could forget the surfer dudes and beach boys that popped up everywhere from Saint Laurent to Miharayasuhiro? Whether fueled by nostalgia or pure joy, designers proved their immense creativity and inventiveness. Here’s a look at some of the top trends of the spring 2015 menswear season.

 

WORK IT OUT

Maybe it’s the “normcore” movement, or maybe people just want to be a bit more practical. But whatever the reason, sporty fashion isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. More designers than we can count traded in dress shoes for sneakers with their formalwear, with fresh kicks popping up everywhere from Calvin Klein to Lanvin. And lots of sports were getting attention, too; baseball tees were just as common as hoodies and track pants. Meanwhile, athleticism met aestheticism for ballet-inspired garb at Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens, the latter moving his regularly sporty pieces into new territory. While going to the gym could still be a pain in the ass, at least you’ll look stylish as hell during your next workout.

 

 

SURFBOARDT

Yes, we know, surfing is a sport, too. But despite the amount of neoprene this season, most designers weren’t exactly sending wetsuits down the runway. Instead, it was more about the surfer attitude, personified via tie dye at Miharayasuhiro and Kolor and palm tree motifs from the likes of Canali and MSGM. If the beaded necklaces and bracelets à la Kris Van Assche didn’t get the point across enough, then maybe the playful mix-matched prints at Paul Smith would do a better job at embodying the carefree beach boy vibes. And the best part? No surf skills are required to rock these styles.

 

 

GOOD JEANS

Denim is one of those things that’s so omnipresent that it would seem weird for it to be considered a trend. But for spring 2015 menswear, designers have been taking your favorite jeans and putting them in a completely different frame. Just check out Phillip Lim’s denim jumpsuit, or the all-denim suit seen at Dior Homme. And it’s impossible to ignore the crazy prints on the fabric at Sibling or the atypical variations at Junya Watanabe. Even Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens incorporated some denim into their unique aesthetics. On one hand, everybody’s got some jeans they can use to fit into this trend. But let’s just say you’re going to have to step it up to meet these designer denim standards.

 

 

JUMP ON IT

Speaking of that denim number at Phillip Lim, jumpsuits have become quite a thing this season. Well, maybe not every designer has gotten into the idea of a men’s one-piece, but Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo were sure feeling it. Give it some time, and we have a feeling plenty more labels are going to jump on this trend.

 

 

STYLE SOLDIERS

Like many other trends, military-inspired looks have been presented in fresh new ways this season. Christopher Bailey always reinvents and masters the army aesthetic at Burberry, and that was no different this time around. Meanwhile, outerwear with utilitarian pockets and epaulets were ever present at Louis Vuitton, and Christophe Lemaire added a similar slant to his monochrome collection. And what would military fashion be without some camouflage? If you want the classic print, then Valentino had plenty of looks for that. But the floral camo shown at Givenchy and the modernized, graphic versions at Sacai were just as noteworthy.

 

 

SPRING/SUMMER OF ’69

From the late 1960s through the 1970s, this era of bohemian style meshed perfectly with classically tailored leisure suits. Antonio Marras veered towards the latter, while Topman Design paid homage to Woodstock. And while Katie Eary’s collection felt relatively Western, there was a noticeable throwback element, too. Whether you’re feeling the sophisticated side from Tom Ford or a bit more like Saint Laurent’s spin on Jimi Hendrix, now would definitely be the time to hit up your favorite vintage shop.

 

 

EARN YOUR STRIPES

Another classic turned on its head, the pinstripe has gotten completely rejuvenated for spring 2015. Sure, the suiting at Trussardi could’ve come straight out of the 1940s. But the 3D stripes at Margiela and the always-eccentric variations at J.W. Anderson felt totally fresh. And let’s not leave out labels like E. Tautz and Matthew Miller, who essentially kicked off this trend during London Collections: Men. Who said this pattern had to be boring?

 

 

WHITE OUT

It was no surprise when we saw all-white ensembles at minimalist labels like Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. But we’d almost forgotten how essential this look is for summertime, proven by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Lou Dalton, and many, many more. All black will always be a thing, and plenty of other colors are having a moment this season, too. But sometimes white is right, and that’s that.

 

 

HERE COMES THE SUN

One of those other colors currently having a moment is yellow. Whether mellow or vibrant, there’s been a whole lot of jaune this season. Acne showed us that there’s nothing to be afraid of when it comes to wearing a big bright yellow jacket, while Berluti sent out a whole range of styles in the sunny shade. And we have to talk about the yellow neoprene jacket from Neil Barrett. Alongside things like the little pops at Calvin Klein, designers made it clear that this is going to be a pretty bright season, and there’s nothing to be afraid of.

 

 

REAL MEN WEAR PINK

Another color that used to formerly terrify men everywhere, pink has been shown as more masculine than ever thanks to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and other A-list labels. Marc Jacobs’ playful flamingo prints showed a fun way to incorporate this hue into your spectrum; pieces at Thom Browne and Comme des Garçons put the creators’ signature eccentricity in the bold shade. And with Rick Owens even featuring a rose ensemble, it’s obvious that it’s time to think pink.

 

 

EASTWARD BOUND

Eastern cultures have always been a huge inspiration for designers across the globe, and that was just as evident this season as ever. Raf Simons‘ nostalgic collection featured a series of Japanese-inspired prints, a thank you note to some of his earliest supporters. At Agi & Sam, the London-based design duo took things almost literally with kimono-esque tops and sandals worn with socks. And they weren’t alone; Craig Green, Phillip Lim, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake, and plenty of others got in on the action, experimenting with everything from traditional Japanese garb to streetwear to minimalism and more. While we’d love to see what’s really going on over in Tokyo, this current Eastern obsession is definitely looking good.

 

 

NOT YOUR MOTHER’S ROBES

Not quite kimonos, long silk robes are making an unexpected appearance in the men’s fashion sphere. Dries Van Noten was on top of this trend, sending a whole series of similar styles down the runway at his romantic Paris show. Haider Ackermann loves a good robe, too, so it’s no surprise that we saw one or two in his collection. A couple pieces at Umit Benan had us headed straight for the shower, while Hedi Slimane gave his signature rock ‘n’ roll, bohemian touch to a variation at Saint Laurent. Like jumpsuits, it might take a minute or two for this fad to catch on. But if anything, it’s definitely refreshing to see designers’ new takes on traditional men’s fashion.

All photos courtesy Style.com

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Paris, with Love

· Beyond · , , , ,

No amount of time in Paris could ever be enough. Being able to return for the spring/summer 2015 menswear shows – a surprise opportunity that came at the very last minute – was an incredible blessing, and the amount of personal and professional growth that came from just one week was phenomenal. There wasn’t nearly enough time for photo shoots or exploration or other projects. However, the shows weren’t the only sources of motivation and inspiration; simply being in Paris is the type of experience that gives you life.

Who knows when Des Phosphènes will be back in the City of Lights? But as last week has shown, sometimes the most amazing things can happen when you least expect it.

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro

Miharayasuhiro Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Did we mention that nostalgia has been dictating a lot of designers’ collections this season? For Mihara Yasuhiro, that couldn’t have been more clear. After the recent death of Bryan McMahon, the British stylist who served as a mentor to Yasuhiro, the designer paid homage to his old friend. A mashup of the pair’s longtime collaboration was presented with the help of editors Kim Howells and Luke Day, two of the closest people to McMahon, and the end result was a story teeming with life experience, worn by years of hard work.

To many, this story could have been translated to that of a California surfer dude; with sandals, fedora hats, beaded necklaces, prints, and jeans, it would seem like just another laid back look for the spring/summer season. However, Mihara Yasuhiro’s reminiscence was the true display. Distressed layers revealed tattered, worn out fabrics below, while denim was slashed and frayed to suggest the wear of life’s trials and tribulations. Tie-dyed knits with loosened threads furthered this dissertation, while a somber piano tune dominated the show. In a nod to McMahon’s own idiosyncrasies, leopard and paisley patterns made a surprisingly cute couple, adding an upbeat spin to the rugged Miharayasuhiro man.

Mihara Yasuhiro noted, “I come from the country of the kimono and the original street style…Bryan brought classic tailoring and elegance to the brand.” This mélange of different aesthetics was evident, and instead of being dominated by sorrow, the spring 2015 Miharayasuhiro menswear collection was a beautiful thank you note to the influence and inspiration brought by Bryan McMahon.

See a few shots from the Miharayasuhiro spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

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Wooyoungmi Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , , ,

wooyoungmi

“Chillax,” is how Katie Chung described the vibe for the spring 2015 Wooyoungmi menswear collection. After years of involvement, the 28-year-old Central Saint Martins graduate has recently been named joint creative director of her mother’s brand. The end result was a much looser silhouette than before. Not only does a solid design aesthetic run in the family, but it also seems like opposites attract; Woo Young Mi’s sharp lines and strict shapes were given a jolt of youthful vitality thanks to Chung’s first official collaboration.

The show notes mentioned the Wooyoungmi man’s resistance to nine-to-five sartorial constraints, with ideas of an artsier inclination being tossed around. Collages of texture and bonded fabrics clarified this concept, which further came to fruition via prints inspired by the work of Carlos Cruz-Diez and Roy Lichtenstein. These motifs were reflected on sheer mesh panels, adding a sporty slant to the ensembles when paired with loose drawstring chinos or when highlighted by a shirt tied at the waist.

The quietly lively Miami color palette could serve as another reminder of the youthful changes at Wooyoungmi. Simple black, white, and grey was spruced up with pops of peaceful light blue and optimistic yellow. If you still weren’t convinced about the loosened up attitude of the Wooyoungmi man, just take a look at the modernized crocs, sure to be top items of the spring 2015 menswear season. And if that didn’t do it for you, the laid-back trap sounds at the show would surely be a selling point.

See the Wooyoungmi spring 2015 menswear collection in its entirety below!

All photos in this gallery by Marcus Tondo/indigitalimages.com

Feature photo by Scott Shapiro

Givenchy Spring 2015 Menswear

· Men's, Runway · , , , , , , ,

Paris Fashion Week has been full of milestones and nostalgia, as designers have been looking into their own lives to create their spring 2015 menswear collections. In Riccardo Tisci’s case, the designer of the moment pregamed his upcoming 40th birthday with a return to his aesthetic roots.

It’s no secret that Tisci has long been inspired by his Catholic upbringing, shown here through precise tailoring and monochromatic palettes. The rigid combination of a white shirt, black jacket, and black tie was given a schoolboy twist via shorts and sneakers. Said sneakers added the sportswear influence that Tisci played a key role in popularizing, with select pairs extending all the way up the models’ thighs. Though substantially subdued in comparison to past seasons, the urban vibes were solidified with sheer black skullcaps topping off every look. Masculinity was far more prominent than elsewhere in Paris, while a few female counterparts – Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Saskia de Brauw, Isabeli Fontana, and more – evoked the necessary dose of dark sensuality that Riccardo loves.

Surprisingly enough, there were none of the uber-popular printed tees that we’d expect from a Givenchy menswear collection. However, don’t think that Tisci completely ditched prints altogether. Instead of Rottweilers, Madonnas, or Bambi’s, the designer turned to gypsophila, more commonly known as baby’s breath. The floral motif blossomed throughout the show, appearing in both black and white, growing more abstract to the point of minimalist camouflage, and ultimately transforming into pearl studded embellishments. The intricate, couture-quality embroidery added a feminine slant to the otherwise macho display, and it looked exceptional atop sheer layers and structured bomber jackets.

Sometimes it’s best to simply go back to basics; Riccardo Tisci’s spring 2015 menswear collection was his most simple endeavor in recent seasons, and it couldn’t have been better.

See a few shots from the Givenchy spring 2015 menswear collection below, and scroll down to see the collection in its entirety!

 

All photos in this gallery by Scott Shapiro

All photos in this gallery by Monica Feudi / Feudiguaineri.com

Feature photo by Boutayna Fartale