Another season of menswear has come and gone, bringing both old and new styles from the world’s top designers. A sharp suit never loses its touch, while sleek minimalism has been reinvented in a variety of ways. And other classics were given unique spins, like the subtle pinstripes seen at Dries Van Noten or Prada’s take on luxury denim. Seasonably appropriate bright colors made an obligatory appearance, too. However, the absence of color is always in, shown by all-white looks at Neil Barrett and Christophe Lemaire. It goes without saying that the sportswear trend has become completely ubiquitous; sneakers and tech fabrics were virtually everywhere, even at the typically refined Ermenegildo Zegna. And who could forget the surfer dudes and beach boys that popped up everywhere from Saint Laurent to Miharayasuhiro? Whether fueled by nostalgia or pure joy, designers proved their immense creativity and inventiveness. Here’s a look at some of the top trends of the spring 2015 menswear season.
WORK IT OUT
Maybe it’s the “normcore” movement, or maybe people just want to be a bit more practical. But whatever the reason, sporty fashion isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. More designers than we can count traded in dress shoes for sneakers with their formalwear, with fresh kicks popping up everywhere from Calvin Klein to Lanvin. And lots of sports were getting attention, too; baseball tees were just as common as hoodies and track pants. Meanwhile, athleticism met aestheticism for ballet-inspired garb at Dries Van Noten and Rick Owens, the latter moving his regularly sporty pieces into new territory. While going to the gym could still be a pain in the ass, at least you’ll look stylish as hell during your next workout.
Yes, we know, surfing is a sport, too. But despite the amount of neoprene this season, most designers weren’t exactly sending wetsuits down the runway. Instead, it was more about the surfer attitude, personified via tie dye at Miharayasuhiro and Kolor and palm tree motifs from the likes of Canali and MSGM. If the beaded necklaces and bracelets à la Kris Van Assche didn’t get the point across enough, then maybe the playful mix-matched prints at Paul Smith would do a better job at embodying the carefree beach boy vibes. And the best part? No surf skills are required to rock these styles.
Denim is one of those things that’s so omnipresent that it would seem weird for it to be considered a trend. But for spring 2015 menswear, designers have been taking your favorite jeans and putting them in a completely different frame. Just check out Phillip Lim’s denim jumpsuit, or the all-denim suit seen at Dior Homme. And it’s impossible to ignore the crazy prints on the fabric at Sibling or the atypical variations at Junya Watanabe. Even Yohji Yamamoto and Rick Owens incorporated some denim into their unique aesthetics. On one hand, everybody’s got some jeans they can use to fit into this trend. But let’s just say you’re going to have to step it up to meet these designer denim standards.
JUMP ON IT
Speaking of that denim number at Phillip Lim, jumpsuits have become quite a thing this season. Well, maybe not every designer has gotten into the idea of a men’s one-piece, but Kim Jones at Louis Vuitton, Walter Van Beirendonck, and Carol Lim and Humberto Leon at Kenzo were sure feeling it. Give it some time, and we have a feeling plenty more labels are going to jump on this trend.
Like many other trends, military-inspired looks have been presented in fresh new ways this season. Christopher Bailey always reinvents and masters the army aesthetic at Burberry, and that was no different this time around. Meanwhile, outerwear with utilitarian pockets and epaulets were ever present at Louis Vuitton, and Christophe Lemaire added a similar slant to his monochrome collection. And what would military fashion be without some camouflage? If you want the classic print, then Valentino had plenty of looks for that. But the floral camo shown at Givenchy and the modernized, graphic versions at Sacai were just as noteworthy.
SPRING/SUMMER OF ’69
From the late 1960s through the 1970s, this era of bohemian style meshed perfectly with classically tailored leisure suits. Antonio Marras veered towards the latter, while Topman Design paid homage to Woodstock. And while Katie Eary’s collection felt relatively Western, there was a noticeable throwback element, too. Whether you’re feeling the sophisticated side from Tom Ford or a bit more like Saint Laurent’s spin on Jimi Hendrix, now would definitely be the time to hit up your favorite vintage shop.
EARN YOUR STRIPES
Another classic turned on its head, the pinstripe has gotten completely rejuvenated for spring 2015. Sure, the suiting at Trussardi could’ve come straight out of the 1940s. But the 3D stripes at Margiela and the always-eccentric variations at J.W. Anderson felt totally fresh. And let’s not leave out labels like E. Tautz and Matthew Miller, who essentially kicked off this trend during London Collections: Men. Who said this pattern had to be boring?
It was no surprise when we saw all-white ensembles at minimalist labels like Jil Sander, Neil Barrett, and Joseph. But we’d almost forgotten how essential this look is for summertime, proven by the likes of Ann Demeulemeester, Craig Green, Lou Dalton, and many, many more. All black will always be a thing, and plenty of other colors are having a moment this season, too. But sometimes white is right, and that’s that.
HERE COMES THE SUN
One of those other colors currently having a moment is yellow. Whether mellow or vibrant, there’s been a whole lot of jaune this season. Acne showed us that there’s nothing to be afraid of when it comes to wearing a big bright yellow jacket, while Berluti sent out a whole range of styles in the sunny shade. And we have to talk about the yellow neoprene jacket from Neil Barrett. Alongside things like the little pops at Calvin Klein, designers made it clear that this is going to be a pretty bright season, and there’s nothing to be afraid of.
REAL MEN WEAR PINK
Another color that used to formerly terrify men everywhere, pink has been shown as more masculine than ever thanks to Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and other A-list labels. Marc Jacobs’ playful flamingo prints showed a fun way to incorporate this hue into your spectrum; pieces at Thom Browne and Comme des Garçons put the creators’ signature eccentricity in the bold shade. And with Rick Owens even featuring a rose ensemble, it’s obvious that it’s time to think pink.
Eastern cultures have always been a huge inspiration for designers across the globe, and that was just as evident this season as ever. Raf Simons‘ nostalgic collection featured a series of Japanese-inspired prints, a thank you note to some of his earliest supporters. At Agi & Sam, the London-based design duo took things almost literally with kimono-esque tops and sandals worn with socks. And they weren’t alone; Craig Green, Phillip Lim, Walter Van Beirendonck, Yusuke Takahashi at Issey Miyake, and plenty of others got in on the action, experimenting with everything from traditional Japanese garb to streetwear to minimalism and more. While we’d love to see what’s really going on over in Tokyo, this current Eastern obsession is definitely looking good.
NOT YOUR MOTHER’S ROBES
Not quite kimonos, long silk robes are making an unexpected appearance in the men’s fashion sphere. Dries Van Noten was on top of this trend, sending a whole series of similar styles down the runway at his romantic Paris show. Haider Ackermann loves a good robe, too, so it’s no surprise that we saw one or two in his collection. A couple pieces at Umit Benan had us headed straight for the shower, while Hedi Slimane gave his signature rock ‘n’ roll, bohemian touch to a variation at Saint Laurent. Like jumpsuits, it might take a minute or two for this fad to catch on. But if anything, it’s definitely refreshing to see designers’ new takes on traditional men’s fashion.
All photos courtesy Style.com