We often tend to misinterpret the differences between gender and biological sex; gender is not intrinsic, but something acquired and learned, something we do and perform. And in our culture, gender is constructed as a binary, where masculinity and femininity are placed as polar opposites. So how does fashion fit into this?
Gender is illustrated by several codes of dress, arguably introduced almost immediately from birth. With separate spheres for menswear and womenswear, the gender divide in fashion is even further enforced by retail markets and media imagery, much of which perpetuates what is seen as being “masculine” and “feminine.” Whereas masculinity is implied by certain constants, femininity is often delineated as everything that masculinity is not. This usually translates in specific fabrics, silhouettes, styles, and countless other elements introduced for males and females. But despite the fashion world’s tendency to perpetuate some of the codes to which we’ve grown accustomed, it’s also the perfect place to see the dismantling and subversion of these guidelines; breaking rules and rejecting social norms are more than welcome here.
Gender-bending fashion isn’t brand new, though it started out subtly. Structured, “masculine” tailoring for women was the first step, with new styles of trousers and outerwear shortly following. And despite the perceived difficulty to get men on board for a bit of role reversal, designers have even started injecting typically “feminine” elements into their collections. Yet gender fluidity is more than simply putting a woman in a suit or a man in a skirt. It’s a good start, and it certainly helps to shift our traditional views of masculinity and femininity, but this doesn’t do much in the larger sense of erasing the divide.
Today’s world is opening up much more than ever before, and fashion is surely playing a major role. From the rise of the trans fashion model to a resurgence of second-wave feminist ideals, our consciousness is growing, our scope far less limited than it once was. But why should the dismantling of gender binaries be seen as a “movement,” just a fleeting trend?
Imagine a world in which show seasons are undivided, where fashion collections are unisex, not limited by the standards that we know. Maybe it’s a somewhat idealistic notion. However, designers like Rick Owens and Shayne Oliver at Hood By Air are going there, blurring lines and refreshing our framework.
The future of fashion is always an exciting thing to explore. Could we see a day without gender binaries? And if so, how would we get there?
Photos, styling, and text by Scott Shapiro
This story features pieces from Lanvin, Dior Homme, and more. Please contact for styling notes and additional information.