LINDER – PHOSPHENES

While New York’s fashion world works to reestablish its identity, Linder stands out as one of the most exciting labels on the rise.

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In today’s ever-evolving fashion climate, it’s rare to find designers that stay true to their ethos and deliver thought-provoking collections that change the way we perceive clothing. But for Linder, the rising New York-based brand consisting of Sam Linder, the force behind the women’s line and Kirk Millar leading the men’s line, their own footing within the industry couldn’t have been more clearly established. The duo devises clothes with an art-minded sensibility, their Spring/Summer 2019 collection serving as a prime example. “I think the commonality between the two of us is that our creative processes are basically like a guiding force,” says Kirk on how the duo has each forged their own respective path under one narrative. “Which I think is why when Sam and I split off, it actually made enough room for each of us to really go for it and have a point of view that was even more unique than what we created together. I think that obviously stood out,” he continues. With the partnership split in two, Linder has flourished creating artfully awkward collections while incorporating a multitude of contrasting concepts, helping the brand garner attention throughout the fashion world.

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For this season’s womenswear, Sam has been able to create a wholly new approach to fashion, exemplified by an incorporation of a variety of plaid separates (like a pair of bike shorts fashioned out of stretchy spandex) alongside elements such as luxe long leather coats and a sublime blue corduroy suit. “With the spring collection, there was much more of a concentration on trying to be specific about, ‘well what are you looking for in a shirt? What do you want out of a pair of trousers?’” says Sam on the overall process of devising the women’s ready-to- wear. With wearability in mind, Sam put his own unique spin on the distinct pieces, imbued with a variety of athletic-inspired yet still elevated silhouettes. “[When designing] Kirk had suggested not to forget to put in some of the weird quirkiness that is a part of my world. So specifically [I incorporated] a lot of plaids,” says Sam on how he established recurring motifs in the collection.

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As for Kirk, he sought to develop a specific storyline for the men’s collections. “[This season], the inspiration was kind of eclectic, and it was somewhat based on continuing the story from the first collection that I had worked on solo, which was about coming out and the experience of it,” he says. “I think this could be about gay men or otherwise. It’s this kind of idea of the pivotal moments [you experience] in young adulthood and then the kind of other things you face in life, like partnership, family and legacy.”

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Running with that theme, Kirk incorporated heavy knit jumpers that featured interpretations of his grandma’s artwork, including a Bernese Mountain Dog motif, and leather jackets, bags, shoes which had been made in collaboration with Parisian brand Chapal. Other highlights from the collection were t-shirts that continued to explore the idea of companionship, one scrawled with the word “boyfriend” in Kirk’s handwriting and another reading “best friends” atop a pair of sweater-clad Dachsunds.

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Together, both designers have been able to and continue to succeed in today’s industry as a promising unit. Not subscribing the to trends or social media pressure that tends to rule our lives, and continually staying ahead of the curve with boundary-pushing collections, Linder shows potential for a great future in New York fashion.